Day 21: Baggara Calabria to Catania

87 km (54 miles) – Total so far: 1,433 km (890 miles)

To Catania

Baggara Calabria looked okay at first impression last afternoon, but it wasn’t. Another Blackpool of the Tyrennhian coast. I suspected problems when it said on the door of the Hotel that the door strictly closed for he night at 4:00 hrs.

The beaches are stoney and packed with deckchairs and sunshades, with a given exact 2 x 1 metre of each each. The “beachgoers” themselves are a predictable crowd. Similar to Blackpool except men wear what seems just tight underwear, women similar. More guts on view, and smoking and scooters dominate. It never ceases to amaze me how people flock like sheep together particularly at holiday times, a considerable proportion of the country must be at he beach now. There is a huge coastline, and every bit I’ve seen in the last 6 days has been busy. I knew these last few days would be the least rewarding biking, and difficult to stay away from beach crowds, and my expectations were proven right. But finished now! Do I come over as antisocial?

Breakfasts have deteriorated greatly since those halcyon feasts of the north. Last few days it’s been a choice of 1 chocolate or marmalade unfresh croissant, and perhaps a prepacked crispy toast that isn’t bread. The coffee was fantastic in the north, and now is not easy to drink at all. Sicilian food is well spoken of, so good times ahead hopefully!

A pleasant morning ride along the big toe of the boot for 20 km winding around fishing villages with small beaches to the port at Villa San Giovanni.

Very efficient 40 minute crossing to Sicily; two big ferries on this route, so it’s not a long wait. Messina seems an interesting place with lots of history, but I just cycled through. It’s 5th August week in Italy, the big holiday week, so these cities are pretty quiet in terms of work being done. There’s plenty of tourists though; Germans, Dutch and Italians, not seen any English since Tuscany.

Then a fairly fast ride down to Catania, with a couple of water stops. Spurred on by getting away from the coast tomorrow! Lots of smart yachts in a couple of ports on the way down, notably at Taormina.

Catania at first impression doesn’t seem as interesting as Messina, but will report more later! 2 star hotel in centre of town with air con, huge old-fashioned room, and the place has plenty of atmosphere, at 30 euros for the night. Some Olympics watching with catch-up water for now!

From photos, I have just one riding shirt of course, washed each evening, and 3 (luxury I can hear), Tshirts for evenings, but only one of those I can wear, as it’s the only one thick enough for mosquitos not to bite through it. Few others are out in long trousers and rugby socks.

I’ve been keeping an eye for Oriental cooking wherever I’ve been. There’s a large Asian population, but their restaurants until now have been difficult to find. A decent one tonight though – it offered pizzas as well of course, and actually just pakora and a chicken curry option. A bit salty – but a great change.

Distance 87.4 km, Max speed 44.4 km/hr, Moving time 4hrs 45mins, Moving Average 18.4 km/hr, Left Baggara at 9:45 hrs, arrived Catania at 15:55 hrs. Ferry at 11:05 hrs. Elevation gained 376 metres.

Baggara – not quite the place I was hoping…
Car horns at 2 / 3:00 hrs did their best to keep me awake, but that didn’t happen for very long

The route ahead to the ferry, spot the motorway / autoroute high up on the left, it has followed this height over many such expansive bridges for the last 250 km, must have had a huge cost to build.