30 miles (48 km) – Total so far: 80 miles (129 km)
The wind didn’t ease overnight, in fact it may have gathered in strength. More steady rain set in as dawn broke. It was forecast to stop at 10 am ish, but it didn’t. Reluctantly I took a wet gent down, and rode the 30 miles via Lochmaddy to Eriksay And the ferry terminal. Although ferries are scheduled every couple of hours, these are low spring tides, and I had a 4 hour wait. By now the rain had gone, but with the windchill the temperature was barely above zero. Sunday also, so the cafe and shop on the small isle of Berneray that looked so welcoming were shut. I settled for trying to warm up in the draughty waiting room.
The day bucked up though with a spectacular journey over to south Harris. At once south Harris is different, hilly and consequently more beautiful. Decisions; to head along the west coast, or the east coast. The west coast has camp grounds that I had been recommended and a couple of restaurants – but Michelin star, so £50+. So it was the east cost that won. A great decision also. 3 miles south on the single track over a big hill to the south tip of Harris and the village of Roden. With the Roden hotel. The landlord suggested a pitch in the hills to the back of the hotel. Lots of shelter and fantastic views over the village harbour. Great food and a few quiet beers also.

Sheltered campsite, just above the Roden Hotel

The Roden Hotel.
Often the pubs up here look pretty bleak from the outside.
Rest assured that it is extremely welcoming on the inside.
Also, got to watch a good part if the last day of the Masters, the landlord was keen







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