Safe Return Doubtful

67 miles (108 km) – Total so far: 288 miles (463 km)

In heavy showers and that southerly still I had 50 miles to the Mull ferry. The ride follows the sea loch to Glenuig then heads over the hill to Moidart. Around the sea loch on a wonderful road, and into the village of Acharacle for coffee and lunch. There is a tremendous bakery here.

Never take the advice of locals too literally. The cafe waitress, a large woman, recommended the more southerly ferry crossing at Lochaline. This ferry goes into Fishnish though, midway between Tobermory and Craignure, whereas the Kilchoan ferry goes directly into Tobermory. I had always fancied the Kilchoan crossing. She said this road was too windy and hilly. Tremendous. At Salen the Kilchoan road turns right, towards the most westerly point of The British mainland, at least while the Scottish are still with us. It is about 25 miles and a real pleasure. Even into the howling westerly wind there was some shelter. It has two big rises, the second of which provides the best scenery as it skirts round the back of a long dead volcano. Then a big downhill into Kilchoan.

I was the only passenger on the Mull ferry. 30 minutes into Tobermory. Straight away there is a reminder that it is Easter vacation and tourist time. Tobermory was busy with visitors, it’s pubs, Indian and Chinese restaurants – seeming like a different world to the islands I had come from. Hence the decision to ride directly out. That, and the fact that the wind had veered round to the north west. The 22 miles south along the east coast of Mull covered in good time, and I arrived into Craignure at 5:30 pm. It didn’t look like there was anywhere to camp for free, and certainly not that was sheltered at first glance. The campsite wanted a staggering £12:50 for a tent. Slightly out if town to the south is a castle gardens. Option 1, ideal really. Close to the Craignure Inn, that was packed full of tourists. Option 2 was to ride back north a mile, from where I had come, to the Isle of Mull Hotel which has the islands swimming pool next to it. At the back of the swimming pool was a good area of grass. Perfect. Dinner and a couple of beers in the hotel after a 100 km + day.

The following morning I caught the 8:45 am ferry back to the mainland, retrieved the car and did battle with the crazy Bank Holiday roads. A distant memory to the riding of the previous week. The best of which will always stay in my memory, the golden road around the south east of Harris, and the road between Salen and Kilchoan approaching the most westerly point of the UK mainland. Windy – but challenging and rewarding.

Arriving into Tobermory, busy with tourists – time for a quick beer in the Mishnish

From the high point on the Kilchoan road, looking out to the Isle of Muck

The climb starts up behind the dead volcano. The weather is fine, except for the 50 mph westerly in the face.

Reminds me that I need a new dry bag before the Great Dvide.
Spot the Cumbrian bin bag…

No big queues for the Tobermory ferry.
It was only me.

A photo with a story.
I am guessing late 1980s I took a team to the Highland Sevens in Inverness. That alone has many stories attached to it.
To the point, our Under 18 team won it. The winner of the men’s tournament was The isle of Mull. We spent the evening in the Phoenix bar in Inverness with them. A great night.
So, here is their club…. About two miles north of Craignure.
Would be a great tournament to play in.