Day 7 Sprague Creek to Bigfork

54 miles (87 km) – Total so far: 335 miles (539 km)

The restaurant at Lake Macdonald only served until 10 pm. Plenty of time, but at 9:15 pm Nat had still not got down from Logan’s Pass. He had wanted to do another hike and enjoy the place with fewer people around. He just about made it in time to order some food and a beer. He had been throwing some stones in the lake and playing his flute for a while. Standing vertically about a metre out of his back pannier I thought it was maybe a flag to warn motorists, but no. With it in that position he tells me it plays to him while he rides downhill. This downhill had been particularly good, and Nat asked me if I had been a-hollering and a-whooping on the way down as he had. I said I was too busy cursing at motorists and anticipating the next Big Sky IPA. He reminds me somewhat of the young hero from Into The Wild, although I’m sure he won’t end up the same way. It is refreshing to see someone young take such an interest in flora and fauna and the wildlife. He can take his time as he has no job to start yet. His equipment isn’t great, but he gets in with it. It must of been very tough for him on parts of his ride. He has a hammock and no tent, and seeing him in it, it can’t be comfortable.

It was a great short stay in Glacier National Park. The place is amazing. However like many places in the USA it suffers from infatuation with cars (or RVs or motorbikes). The young German couple next to us had come to do some wilderness hikes. Train to West Glacier and no problem once in the Park as the shuttle buses are free. But it’s 5 miles between West Glacier and the park, and no way to get there expect walk, with rucksacks full and food for 7 days. To do a wilderness hike you must apply a couple of weeks ahead, and have an American address. Also, the trailheads can only be reached by car, and there are no taxis or other transport to get you there. The biggest problem is the far too many vehicles are allowed up the pass. At the top it is common to wait more than an hour for a parking space. Today being Sunday there was a steady stream from 7 am. But we were headed the opposite way.

Today was a fast ride, exhilarating and in hot sunshine. 10 miles to West Glacier and the park gates for breakfast form the grocery store. There I left Fred, as probably he was headed towards Missoula. Nat had stayed another day in the park to play some more flute and throw stones into the Lake. For me, onwards and southwards through the places pictured below, into flat Montana for a whole at least, and a chance, at least briefly, to see what this ‘Big Sky’ is all about. A really top day’s riding, and the route highly recommended to future visitors. Plenty of traffic in places, but I suspect a lot quieter than the bigger roads to the west.

Camp is on a State Park site on Flathead Lake. It’s Sunday and busy now with day visitors, quieter tonight. It has a hiker-biker area at $15, and showers which will be welcome after 4 days without.

Distance 54 miles Riding time 3 hrs 53 minutes Average Speed 13.7 mph, Max Speed 31.4 mph, Departed at 9:20 am, arrived 2:45 pm. Altitude 890 metres.