71 miles (114 km) – Total so far: 511 miles (822 km)
Two miserable Frenchmen arrived about an hour after me. I tried a few times to get a conversation going, but they were more interested in their own company. They were riding a section of the GDMBR route on their way from New York to Seattle. They had a ridiculous amount of gear, although I know the French like to dress well.
Cathy in the Anglers shop is the person to ask should you have any problem. She seems to know everyone in a 100 mile radius, not that that is very many.
Trixie’s Place on the hill is a great place. 3 microbrews on draft, most significantly Keetlehouse’s Cold Smoke at 6.8%. Great for a winter night, and not too bad for the late evening of a 30 degree summer day. There’s a good atmosphere in the place and just two girls (surprisingly not Trixie) cooked and served everyone. Needless to say I was in bed early.
Early start also, gone by 8:15 after the best breakfast yet at The Stray Bullett. Omelette, home fries and toast, plus multiple coffee for $9. 10 miles more on route 200 headed east, with much less wind today, then turn southish on route 141. It’s then 33 miles of rolling hills, and up over a 1600 metre pass to the sleepy and sweltering Avon. Then west on the Spotted Dog Canyon Road, route 12 for about 12 miles to Garrison and the I-90. I was going to stop at Garrison, but there is nothing there other than a store, so I continued to Deer Lodge, meaning a 10 mile ride south on I-90. I don’t have much choice here other than to ride I-90 for a while. It’s an Interstate, but quite as they go, and fast. Just a question of getting those miles done.
Deer Lodge is the biggest place I have been in since Calgary, with a population on 3,118. At either I-90 junction, it has what you would expect, McDonalds, motels, Dairy Queen, Pizza Hut, etc. In town though, it is ‘historic’, or so the sign says. That doesn’t count the prison population, 3 miles west and the biggest in the state. It’s historic fame is from 1862 when a Scottish fur trader established a cattle ranch of over a million acres. The grass prairies around still mean the cattle produce some of the best steak in the country.
I am at the KOA (Kampgrounds of America). Though expensive at $24 the whole site is wifi’d and there are showers, my first since Waterton 8 days ago. Rather than be confused with the Council on Accreditation, the country’s camping body decided to go with the incorrect spelling. Appalling, I am sure you will agree.
Storms have been building all day. It was 101 Fahrenheit in Garrison, just over 38C. It would be good to clear the air, although the night will still drop to 10-15 C. Could be an interesting place for beers.
Distance 71 miles, Ride time 5 hrs 35 minutes, Average Speed 12.5 mph, Max speed 32.4 mph, Departed at 8:15 am, arrived at 3:30 pm.

On the way up to the pass on route 12 heading south, at Nevada Creek Lake

The picture alone may struggle to get over to you how much the quality of a brand new road surface is appreciated

…but there’s a price to pay, it is still being worked on, so traffic problems of a minor sort with a 10 minute light and a rough gravel surface for 6 miles
The wait was the chance to meet some motorcycle rides though. Two Canadians on Harley Davidsons headed down to South Dakota for the biggest biking festival in the world

No services for 43 miles and I roll into the sleepy town of Avon.
There was a shop, a Quilt making store. Hardly what was needed, and it was closed.

A railroad survives in these parts. Very few have, and this probably on the strength of the mining (granite).

Finally a store at Garrison, 11 miles further on.
The female attendant showed the thermometer at 101 degrees here. No water though in the bathrooms to refill my bottles, rather sell it at almost twice the price of the other sugar filled sodas. I made do with chewing on my tongue.

Arriving into Deer Lodge, still a huge beef cattle area of the state and whole country.
The ‘historic’ refers to a million acre ranch established by a Scotchman in 1862.

Interesting, especially the Wild Boy – like a fairground from 100 years ago or more

Traffic problems in downtown Deer Lodge, could cause mayhem in the rush hour.

Another rant on RVs – to drive this you just need a normal licence. Most drivers are over 60. It’s bigger than most coaches in the UK, and towing. This guy had a mobility scooter when he got out, and was very heavy. I went over and told him to turn his engine off while he checked in. He did so, but not with a smile. I had to help him up into the driving seat. Insanity.






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