Safe Return Doubtful

60 miles (96 km) – Total so far: 255 miles (410 km)

This was very much a day of two halves. The two old ladies run a good campsite at Margie’s and charge fairly for tents which so few RV parks do. If you’re passing this way, stay here, and don’t be tempted to go on to Omak or Okanogan heading west, or Tonasket heading east.

17 miles north with gentle hills into a northerly breeze on highway 97 was all the fun I didn’t think it would be. It’s a busy and fast highway, not good for cyclists, but does have a decent shoulder. With relief I was at Tonasket at just after 8:30, and started up the pass. Suddenly the riding is completely different. There was more traffic on this than the Loup Loup but still so much quieter than the 90, an it was good to just concentrate on the climb.

It’s 24 miles to Wauconda, though the road climbs, it crosses a plain, which by the time I got there was in the 30s, hot. From Tonasket this is a climb of about 1100 metres. Running low on water it was with some considerable delight incam to the ‘town’ of Wauconda. It’s one building, fortunately a post office / store, and was open. The ‘store’ title is earned by some self serve cold drinks with an honesty tray of 75 cents. Luck, because that was all I wanted. It’s really just a post office these days, a place for local ranchers to come and get their mail. From here it’s 3 miles and another 200 metres up to the top of the pass.

The rapid descent goes straight into the hilly town of Republic. Lively though it looked , I am staying a couple of miles out at the County Fairground. It’s quiet, there’s shade, and it’s 10$ includes a cold shower and wifi.

Don’t miss this place if you’re in Riverside

Tedious riding on highway 97 headed north – a headwind and fast traffic

Less traffic and much more scenery heading up to the pass – note that little shack on the hill, satellite TV…

A break on the climb in a bit of shade

The only building in Wauconda – the only item for sale is cold drinks at 75 cents in an honesty tray

The 4th of the 5 Washington Northern Tier passes – not the biggest, but coming from the west the most climbing

The hilly town of Republic

Camp at the Kerry County Fairgrounds

Storytime:

More from that first summer in America

Looking back Ito that trip in Nigel’s 18th summer, and its incredible we didn’t get into more scrapes, the three of us, Nigel, Jimmy and I. Though we were on that shoestring budget and we couldn’t afford motels we had to find places to sleep, and the car was less attractive with our dirty clothes festering in the heat and the bits of sick we hadn’t cleaned adding to the odour.

As it was so warm we found State Parks late at night and slept on picnic benches, but we didn’t even have sleeping bags, so some nights were a feast for the mosquitoes. We ate from grocery stores at the hour they reduced prices on fresh food, and didn’t keep it in the car overnight any more.

One night we woke up terrified, thinking there were bears. After a few minutes we realised it was just deer.

One of our good friends, Jo Tregenza, had a job as a nanny and was at the family’s holiday place in Maine to receive the visit of her parents (Paul and Anne, also good friends of ours), and ideally, with none of the family there. We were headed that way, to stay over and have a couple of days in relative luxury.

After the re-introductions we decided to head out to the local town for a beer and some food. It was about 10 miles away and I was selected to drive in our huge though dilapidated and smelly, Ford Falcon. It could sit all six of us, at a push. A great night was had with much mirth. Jo’s dad, Paul, was a very special character. He sadly died in his fifties, almost 20 years ago. Nigel and Jimmy were on great form and it became a night to remember, for more reasons than the banter. On the way home we drove on very quiet country roads that passed a prison. Unbeknown to us the cops has wind of an escape plan and were staked out at various places around the perimeter. As we passed they gave chase and pulled us over.

“Step out of the car please sir.”

“Certainly Officer,” and proceeded to explain what we were doing with my finest exaggerated English accent stressing words ‘splendid’ that I didn’t think Americans used much.
“Have you been drinking sir?”
I explained I had had just a couple of celebratory ones. He proceeded to ask me to walk a line that he drew with his foot in the dirt and darkness at the side of the road.
Things were not helped by the overloaded car which was rocking with the laughter I failed at the time to see.
Walking the line however, I was in my element. I couldn’t get Talking Heads out of my mind, “I’m walking the line, I’m keeping my fingers behind me.”
“I’m terribly sorry to have bothered you sir, have a good evening.”
“Thank you Officer,” I replied, I such fine respect for your systems of justice.”

It was back to Jo’s for more partying.