Safe Return Doubtful

63 miles (101 km) – Total so far: 354 miles (570 km)

Everyone I’ve met in Albania has been friendly, helpful and welcoming. There’s a lot of poverty clearly, and most people are in at least 2 jobs, but they still have time to come over and chat, even in very broken English. When riding in the rural areas everyone acknowledges you,and the kids always say hello.

The Hotel Gjallica was a great example. They couldn’t do enough. The food was excellent also, and, that dark beer… It’s very cheap for UK people here. The 3 star Hotel in the city centre was 15 euros, and dinner, 3 courses and 3 beers, less than 10 euros.

Kukes is a town surrounded by mountains, so no surprise that’s there’s a big climb to leave.
It’s at just over 300 metres asl. I left on the new SH23 which isn’t marked on maps. It climbs to 720 metres, rather than the 600 that the old road did.

A pull in area on the new SH23 climb. Great views so no doubt a popular stop.
And hence, full of litter. A bin could help though…

My route until the border was wonderful. A quiet road and again spectacular scenery. There are two decent sized climbs and lots of up and down, by the time the border arrives, I’d climbed 1000 metres.

One cafe stop midway at the small town of Krume, drinks work out about 50 p each.

Minutes only at the border, then a 300 metre downhill to the town of Gjakove.

The old bridge in Gjakove.
Made for square wheels I believe.

A day of two halves really.
As ever on a tour it’s occasionally necessary to do some riding on busy roads. I went through 3 big towns, All with populations above 30,000, and the driving is pretty crazy, stopping anywhere and doing unpredictable things; not just the drivers either.
Back at only 300 metres asl and it’s a hot day, 31C, which makes it tougher also.

Into Peć, or Pejë as it is called in Albanian of which there are many residents, and a route finding problem on my GPS to the hotel. There was an old Hotel Peja, not near the new one…
80,000 people in the city and it’s a busy Monday.
One of its claim to fame is producing the most popular Kosovan and Albanian Beer, Peja. I think I’ll probably be giving it a miss.

Is a bit crazy to say the least for a cyclist new to town – so I opted to tail this drinks seller for a while.

The hotel is just off the centre pedestrianised area. Noticeably smarter with lots of cafes and restaurants onto the street.