Day 7 – Peja (Kosovo) to Andrijevica (Montenegro)

53 miles (85 km) – Total so far: 407 miles (655 km)

Peja’s new city centre is really only 2 – 3 years old; the pedestrianised streets, it’s smart bars and restaurants, and tacky souvenir shops. The war finished in 1999 but there is still disquiet with local neighbours. Change though, has come really quickly. I had a beer and chatted to the barman for a while, then dinner in a really good Italian, King’s restaurant. Beers are 1 Euro maximum, and dinner was 2.50.

Today was to get ‘back in the high life again’, back into the Balkans which I had just come to the east side of, and specifically, the Chakor Pass.

Leaving Peja at just after 8 am, heading into those mountains

This was to be an exceptional day of cycling, starting with a cycle path even, just half a km from the centre, heading just where I wanted to go.

It beats just hanging stuff on a gate.

I hoped to find my cycle shirt…
I wash it every night in the shower, and last night hung it to dry on the balcony of my room. Half an hour later a huge storm came in, massive rain and wind. When I noticed the crashing thunder and looked outside it had already gone…
It was the Outside Sports Queenstown one from Bike NZ in 2004, still going well. Hopefully at least, some Kosovan gets some use out of it,
On the looout for a new one therefore.

There is growing tourism during the first 20 km. lots of restaurants, some closed down. Some new hotels. Several signed hiking and MTB tracks. There were a few cars, but it’s a holiday, Eid up-Adha, so maybe less than a usual summer day.

The last people I could find anywhere who rode this route was Peter Quaife in April 2010.
https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?page_id=149711
Without the snow this time, and it seems to have changed little.
Why do so few tourers ride what is one of the great cycle days?
The border is the problem.
The border post was bombed in the war and has never been replaced.
The road is not continually sealed, there is a rough track for 3 km at the actual border.
With the ongoing tension between Kosovo / Albania and Montenegro it is in their closed.
Through internet searches I found a company called Zbulo.org who organise hikes but also get permits for hikers crossing mountainous borders. They got me a police permit for 5 euros from the Kosovan police. It is necessary to apply between 2 and 6 weeks in advance. They are very helpful and will explain.

The first 15 km ascend at about 6-8% through a spectacular high sided gorge. Magnificent riding.

And, for about 20 km, I had company from this little guy.

From about the 15 km mark to Matesevo at the 21 km mark would be a great place to stay. There are several hotels like this one, with camping.
After 21 km, wild camping would be great, but there are no restaurants.

Just before Matesevo.
I had the route on the GPS off for some reason, and kept heading straight, rather than turn left, the way that looked more populous. The wrong way, I was told after 6 km and 200 metres of unnecessary climbing. Nice to have a chat to a hotel owner though… and great scenery.
After Matesevo no cars any more. If you take the correct turn and follow the M9.

This is the M9 for 3 km at the border.
The scenery is incredible, and you have the whole place to yourself.
I didn’t see a car for more than 2 hours.

This is Montenegro now.
Clearly no cars can pass the huge concrete blocks.

he border is at about 1200 metres.
Just another 10 km to go to the top of the pass, and another 650 metres climbing, mainly on switchbacks / zigzags.
And the gradient steepens, but still very rideable, 8 – 10%.

The top of the pass at 1845 meters, and the Montenegro border police…

3 of them. They must see less than 5 people if that all day.
The first one says ‘big problem’ to me, border closed. He is the only one who speaks any English, and it’s very broken. He says he will get the ‘big chief’. And he does. The guy is 6 foot 4.
He tells me my permit is from the Kosovan police. They need one from the Montengran police. They each repeat ‘big probkem’ a few times, and then the ‘big chief’ makes a telephone call, or appears to. ‘You can go’ he says after about 10 minutes.
I was pretty sure that was always going to happen, and they just wanted to appear tough. But apparently they do have a lot of smuggling, and that is why they are there.
At night they go though. And anyway in the dark they wouldn’t see you. If they had turned me back I would have gone a km down the road and waited until night.

Fantastic views during all of this…