Safe Return Doubtful

27 miles (43 km) – Total so far: 606 miles (975 km)

Other than the odd word no one spoke English at the hotel or that I met in town, the first place I’ve noticed this. Hotel Moskva is very grand, the rooms immaculate, just waiting for tourists to return. I had completed the form on their website, emailed them (in Bosnian) and called several times, all with no answer. Should you be planning to ride here, don’t worry, there is certainly room. 20 euros a night (or 40 Bosnian Marks) with breakfast.
I read that even after the war Mladic (who was born very close by) was a hero here. It could be that with his sentencing only as recent as last November, people have only now been allowed to move on. The trial in The Hague lasted 5 years, he was convicted of war crimes, crimes against humanity, and genocide.

Bike event leaving the hotel this morning at 7:30, people have travelled from a long way.

Immediately I’m off road.
This is part of the Via Dinarica which has a good online PDF of information at https://vipdinarica.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Bike-Guidebook-ENGLISH-Full-Version.pdf

Straight from the outset magnificent scenery as it climbs in 8 kilometres 350 metres to 1400 metres.

There are plenty of these drinking water fountains, cold and refreshing.
Many are war memorials also, with names of the dead in them.

The first high point of the day, at just over 1400 metres.

Then a 500 metre descent.
It’s rough and stony, with 6-8% gradients, all quite rideable assuming wide tyres.

“The stunned knight came upon a field
Where nothing lived, just scattered skulls and bones.
What battle had been fought, what did it yield?
No one remembers why the screams and groans. “

“A highway of diamonds with nobody on it”

The only people I saw for the 35 km route were a couple of shepherds.

There are many landmines that may not yet have been found.
Best to to wander too far from the track.

The lowest point of the day at 865 metres. The village of Ljuta.
In 1991 234 people lived here. Now it is deserted. The mosque was destroyed and has been rebuilt.
I met a guy later in the day who worked in Sarajevo to rehouse refugees, especially to small villages like this.
The memorial shows the men that this village lost.

Rejoining the pavement for a few kilometres after 35 km on the track.
The second half of the ride is less scenic. It climbs again, this time to 1480 metres, and with a steeper gradient, 8-10%.
It descends slightly (100 metres) to the pavement.

Down and up again.
This was my additional add on though. I wanted to stay overnight high, and take a mountain road tomorrow. A climb of 250 metres back up to Umoljani.

I’m staying at the Pension Umoljani, at 1350 meters.
It’s quite busy in the afternoon as it’s relatively close to Sarajevo and gets quite a few day trippers for lunch in the mountains.
There’s some great hiking and MTB also.