Day 17 – Kulen Vakuf (Bosnia) to Slunj (Croatia)

58 miles (93 km) – Total so far: 886 miles (1,426 km)

The apartment was a great place to relax with dinner in one of the two restaurants overlooking the river. Things have clearly quietened down after the high season last week. This northern part of Bosnia, half an hour by car from the border, and not far from the coast, looks like it gets much more visitors than any further south.

Leaving Kulen Vakuf the road meanders down the Una valley, quiet as ever.

The first littering sign I’ve seen, in all of the Balkans.
The actual formal garbage dumps are usually just on the edge of towns, often in a particularly beautiful place. I’m not sure they do anything with it – burn some of it, just leave the rest…

Wonderful peaceful riding. And I had another dog with me for about 10 km as the road now climbs over a pass.

A break at a water fountain and memorial.
I had some cramp in the right groin so had to stop to stretch for a while. The few motorists that did pass must have thought crazy guy.

And my relationship with the R402 comes to and end, after a couple of days. It has been some tremendous riding.
The road now joins a bigger road heading into Bihac, moderate traffic, not too bad.

Downhill to Bihac, at a paltry 200 metres asl.

St Antun Cathedral in Bihac from the Una River.
Bihac was under siege for pretty much the whole of the recent war, 3 years in all

Quick stop to change a few Bosnian Marks into Euros,
The clerk was extremely helpful and had excellent English. She was dismal about her country’s future. 60% of the population receive no formal education at all. Many are leaving for a life in Germany.
It’s my last stop also. To counter her view, I have had a tremendous week in the country, with some of the finest riding I have ever done. I’ve lived well… and spent about 30 euros a day.

Bihac Centre.

Quick stop for another Bosnian highlight, a pie for lunch, this time cheese,

And just for entertainment, there’s a car smash outside,just a minor one..

A patient dog waiting with the cars to cross the border.

The border is on a hill, a couple of hundred metres up to get to it. As borders go, it’s very scenic (though not quite in the league of those in high Patagonia).
Today it was also swarming with a plague of flying ants. I’m still pulling their carcasses off me. It must be the sunflower crop that attracts them.
Not easy to ride with head down and nose, eyes and mouth full of them.

The smaller road I’m on soon joins the main Split – Zagreb road and becomes busy.
It’s not far to where I’m staying, 30 kilometres, but the least enjoyable riding of the course so far.

I’m overnighting in Slunj. Prices have climbed, but I’ve got a good room for 25 Euros.
It’s the meeting place of the rivers Korana and Slunjčica. It has small waterfalls but many of them, so water mills also. It is clearly popular with tourists, and all along the road there is plenty of accommodation on offer.
It’s the skinniest part of Croatia, and I’m only in the country for a day.

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supera superiora sequi

SafeReturnDoubtful is my alias.


Where is Andy?

Shap, Cumbria circa 2016 – Tia, Roja and Mac behind

I was so much older then…

Dartmoor 2019


Quote of the Week

Alice asked the Cheshire Cat, who was sitting in a tree, ‘What road do I take?’ The cat asked, ‘Where do you want to go?’ ‘I don’t know,’ Alice answered. ‘Then,’ said the cat, ‘it really doesn’t matter, does it?’


Lewis Carroll