Safe Return Doubtful

45 miles (72 km) – Total so far: 190 miles (306 km)

A rarity, a small problem at Romanian customs. I went ahead of the many queuing cars as usual, was ushered in by the driver next-up, and when the border guard saw my passport he called his colleague and said that Britain was no longer in the EU so the passport was not valid. I had renewed it (intentionally as an EU one before the blue British ones came in). He called a more senior colleague and the problem has over, but a story worth telling, our days of quick border crossings maybe numbered.

Away just after 8:15 am and in the relative cool of the morning (early 20s) shared the promenade with quite a few other early risers.
It was about 10 km to the Iron Gates which is the hydro-electric plant and dam from which the bridge forms the border to Romania. Here it was goodbye to Karin who is headed to Belgrade then back to work next week, it has been great riding with an old friend for a few days.

I knew what to expect on entry to Romania from the road at least. This was the E70 for 20 kilometres through Orsova. The highwayhas virtually no shoulder, perhaps 30 cm, and frequently none, crossing the many bridges and through two tunnels. In effect, that’s about half the way. Despite it being Sunday morning there were very many trucks on the road, so it was a case of head down and concentrate; unpleasant cycling, which can happen from time to time, there really was no alternative here.

The much awaited turn off eventually came although it took a few more km until the traffic calmed. At first sight Baile Herculane looked a quiet little town, and I wondered even if it had a bank or currency exchange which I needed. But this was the old town.

The new town is a big resort with high rise hotels and was very busy. So it was a brief stop at the bank and onward.

The attraction and the majority of people in the briefest of swimwear is based on the Cerna river, which trickles through the Valea Cernei at this time of year, and with so many people taking its thermal pools it must be very dirty.

For at least 10 kilometres up the valley after Baile the road was totally packed, impassible in many places with police attempting and failing to direct traffic; people trying to find a park and than wandering laden with picnics and beers through the already struggling traffic.

As predictable though, the higher up the valley the more the traffic died out, until the point where I am staying, where it is relatively peaceful and there and there are very few cars. Though the valley has always been picturesque, it really is beautiful now, and the river very much cleaner.

I’ve a great accommodation in a Casa on the river, and arrived quite early, at 3:30 pm, even with the gaining of an hour. I’ve spent the afternoon reading, a bonus of no internet, and off for a beer now. Like I expect a lot of buildings I will see in the country, looks like it was built, or rebuilt, in the 1990’s. I’m actually reading McGuinness’s The Last One Hundred Days .

This Casa is a wonderful place to stay. A few other people there who wanted a chat, but really peaceful and excellent food.