Safe Return Doubtful

The mountains are calling and I must go – Retezat National Park, Transylvanian Carpathians

 55 miles (89 km) – Total so far: 245 miles (394 km)

On the road after an incredible breakfast at 8:20 am for what was to be a tough day.

It was 5 km on the sealed road before the turn off to Cerna Sat.
That was another 12 km without gaining much height at all on a rough stony track that was being graded. It’s less than half the speed on such surfaces.

The climb begins steadily after the village, but it isn’t until just before the lake Cerna where it begins properly. Last night was at 350 metres above sea level, and the lake at 720 metres. But the track around the lake improved, just early compacted mud – but not so bad when it’s dry.

I came across the first people I had seen since Cerna Sat and they were a young Czech hiking couple looking stressed. They had been camping for a few nights but last night had had their food stolen by some drunken loggers, who they warned me I would come across. They were hungry and tired, and a day of walking until any shop or house. By coincidence about an hour later a Czech 4WD came past and I was able to send them to the aid of their fellow countrymen. I also rode past the loggers, drunk indeed, and on a downhill, so all they could do was yell at me. A strange occurrence in such an isolated place.

Time was getting on, not helped by taking the wrong route for 5 kilometres uphill, costing more than an hour.

Midway up, a motorcyclist stopped to chat. I had seen only about 7 other people all day. He passed me a litre of water which was much needed. Good to chat also.

It was 6:45 pm at the top at 1365 metres. Then 4 km downhill on the rough stuff at about 10% and a really good sealed surface with a gradual but very fast descent to where I am now. It seemed strange to travel at such speed having been going so slow all day.

Once into habitation I saw two old guys cycling and asked about a hotel. They led me to a place a couple of km off the road. I was ready for a beer and some food and rest.
A long day, but some of the best cycling I have ever done.