Safe Return Doubtful

59 miles (95 km) – Total so far: 435 miles (700 km)

I walked a couple of hundred metres to an average restaurant last night and as I did campers kept arriving and arriving at the site. I should have seen it coming. It was a public holiday in Romania, I’ve done all this before, but not learned my lesson. I got back just before 9 and there was a disco on with Romanian music and still campers arriving. Also now, a large spot light just above my tent. Fortunately I had a blindfold and ear plugs and they did the trick, though it did quieten at midnight. With hindsight of course, I would have avoided the place, it really was pretty awful.

Today was all about the Transfagarasan, and iconic bicycle climb, though I saw only one other rider today. The weather broke, a relief for me but no doubt that put some off. It was cloudy and cool and thundery ran forecast.
The climb started at 630 metres, and after about 10 km I got the breakfast buffet at a 4 star hotel. Certainly I had my 30 lei’s worth (£6), with a good packed lunch also.

I had started at 7:30 am as I knew it would get busy. That paid off, spotting this brown bear at the roadside.
It’s sad to see them in this way really, though a one off experience. They come to the road for the litter that’s chucked out of car windows, and, as in Colorado, because people feed them.
I was told last night that now there is a real problem with them, one even ate a dog last week. Hopefully the Park authorities can enforce a ban on littering.

The spectacular switchbacks begin at 1300 metres, much photographed, but the gradient is pretty much always between 6 and 9% it’s pretty much 55 km of climbing, with a little respite at the lake at 900 metres, which the road winds around, very up and down though.

It’s late morning and getting busy now. Lots of these hawkers, and people stopped for roadside barbecues…which means more litter.

And even busier… Into the last few hundred metres and the traffic is stationary in places.

My break here was cut short, as there was all sorts of disastrous behaviour going on, from throwing rocks off the edge of the road (to the switchback far below), to vandalising the rocks with painted names, children being encouraged by parents to stand on precipitous edges, all the cars that are stationary and parked with their engines running, litter bins overflowing so anywhere will do. Eco-tourism this isn’t.

At the top (2020 metres) just after 3 pm, a bit quicker than I expected.
And quicker than a lot of cars I passed earlier..

The summit is at this tunnel. Fine on the south side, torrential rain on the north side.

And the tunnel is a one kilometre queue, gradually filling with carbon monoxide.
I mad some highly illegal manoeuvres, riding round the outside of the waiting traffic, and nipping in and out of cars coming the other way. I didn’t want to wait around.

Some change from recent days. About 8 C with heavy rain and occasional thunder.
The summit is at 2020 metres, I couldn’t find any marker in the cloud. A new high point for the tour by some way, and likely to remain that way.
It’s a very fast and cold 1400 metre descent in about 25 kilometres.

At the summit of the Transfagarasan Pass, or thereabouts..

This is far more like my type of accommodation.
Casa Deus In Cartisora has rooms, camping and these little huts for 70 lei (about £14) – great with stuff to dry. Good restaurant also.
I’m next to the chicken coup, and it’s a big one – still, I’m sure it will be quieter than last night..