Day 29 – To Crask

Monday 24th May

Today was the first real rain day I’ve had since being away, consistent heavy rain, a cool north westerly wind, and a temperature around 5C. Where better to be perhaps, than the Cnoc an Alaskie, the blanket bog that covers much of Sutherland lying north of Lairg. It may be of special scientific interest but it’s a bleak vista on the best of days, which this one wasn’t.

Mid afternoon, with the weather not looking like it would change anytime soon, I took a wander into the heart of the bog, albeit on a stony path, to see if any of the scientific interest would wipe off on me.

I was headed for the Crask Inn (also of scientific interest..) which is a uniquely isolated pub, pretty much in the middle of the bog, and the distant shadow of Ben Klibreck. It has a history of welcoming travellers from its opening as a coach house in 1814. There’s not so many campervans or motorhomes here, rather Lands End – John O’Groates cyclists, and indeed two walkers, who were my company this evening. It is indeed, very welcoming, with a woodstove burning, good beer (Black Isle Red Kite Amber), and a cheeky Jack Russell dog.

It’s a great pub, but it does have a problem with traffic outside; not of course the weight of traffic, just the speed it passes. There is no restriction through the village, so the trucks pass through at 50 mph plus. Also, as I recall from the straight rural roads of the south of the South Island of New Zealand, cars racing at night, at high speeds. This was unwelcome also on our LE – JOG ride twenty years ago on the A9, where at some places at nights their speed would be more than 100 mph.