Day 32 – to Castril

The Natural Park of Sierra de Castril is a rugged and spectacular region known for for its unique geological features; a dramatically eroded landscape of gorges, vertical cliffs, waterfalls and, below ground, numerous caves. It has quite a different climate to its sister Cazorla to the west, with much more rainfall. The signs of autumn are more noticeable here.

From the campsite there is a terrific walk into the heart of the Sierra. Initially it follows a track, but after a couple of kilometres diverts away from the river slightly and climbs more sharply of a rocky path, to the Cortijos del Nacimiento, the source of the Castril river, where there are superb views down the river valley. But the real reward is after this. After another kilometre of climbing the valley opens out to a spectacular amphitheater of rock, highlighted by the morning sun. This route, Barranco de la Osa, then climbs steeply up a canyon almost as a Via Ferrara, with cable hand holds and a series of sets of steps in the rock. At 1550 metres you emerge on a ridge that meanders its way aside the various peaks giving amazing views of the Castril massif and its valley. A tremendous few hours, but the temperature grew steadily, from setting out at 6C, to 27C on return.

Driving at 10 to 15 mph back down the rough track I admired the terrace of a solitary house on the riverside, and was hallooed by a man in a familiar accent. He was from South Wales, and had noticed my number plate. This was his house, he and his wife and moved here in 2004 and owned and managed several acres of olive and almond trees for many years. He had no Spanish when he came, and was now chair of the Parish Council. I mentioned the town of Castril, and said I may stay there tonight. He recommended it, it’s little campsite, and more than anything, Emilio’s Bar. I took his advice, and half an hour later was settled in the shade.