Day 45 – to Trevélez

This high Mediterranean climate is one that is extremely dry in the summer, and usually breaks with rain in early October. As last year, that hasn’t happened, it was three to four weeks late, but is usually quite reliable. It goes along with a sharp drop in temperature, and the first snow above 2000 metres. However, it is still bone dry here, late 20s in the day, and cool nights, obviously dependant what altitude you’re at. Last night here at 2150 metres, down to 2C. There is no immediate forecast for any change, not in the next 7 days.

Just as we were about to depart our high site a guide turned up to park, with two clients from Ireland, headed to Mulhacen. He pointed out to me a path that was not marked on maps that wound its way around the mountain and opened to excellent views. We didn’t need persuading, and it was a great start to the day.

The last photo, a view of the typical Alpujarran village of Capileira from above. The penultimate, one of the occasional magnificent properties high up in the wilds.

We then drove on around the south of the Sierra Nevada massif to Trevélez. We settled into the extremely quiet campsite and did the 3 weekly laundry, and cleaned the van. With this dry climate everything is dusty.

On a couple of the signposts outside town Trevélez claims to be the highest municipality in Spain, at 1482 metres, but that is a false claim. That honour goes to the place I visited on Day 6, Valdelinares.

Trevélez is famous for the quality of its air-cured hams, a speciality throughout the Alpujarras but particularly associated with the village, because the dry climate due to its altitude makes for ideal conditions for storing them.

The village celebrates the day of the Virgen de Las Nieves (Virgin of the Snows – the legend of which I regaled a few days ago) in August, when a life size plastic doll of the virgin is carried to the summit of Mulhacén where a service takes place, and there is a party. The hope is that this will keep travellers safe in the Sierra Nevada for another year.

I took a beer in the village, and another back at the campsite and chatted to the owner and his friends. The owner is an Australian, and though clearly dedicated, one of those people who enjoys telling old jokes, most of which these days are dated and offensive. Then laughs himself, while all around is silent.