Day 63 – at Hemavan

The Kungsleden is Sweden’s famous long distance hiking route. It is 440 kilometres in length from Abisko in the north to here in Hemavan, and there are 20 staffed huts on route. At a reasonable pace it would take 22 days to complete the entire route. I had intentions of doing a section of it with 6 hut night stays when I was planning for this trip. Two things led to a postponement. Firstly, that it is full to capacity in the latter weeks of the season, as the mosquitos have gone; full, in that the huts are at full occupancy, as are the tent sites around the huts. It would still be possible to camp wild, but using the hut kitchen and sauna in the evenings is a big part of the experience. Secondly, I couldn’t trust my long standing injury, or condition, as I guess it has become. Though I’ve done a lot here, it is always restricted by the back / hip injuries and the nerve problems, sciatica, in the legs. Some days are better than others, there’s no way to predict it. But my pace is slow, to say the least.

My hope, is to get some treatment on returning home, as I only got the MRI result back the day before I left, and do some longer overnight routes next time I’m here.

With the use of the gondola to get to 800 metres, I did a few kilometres on the Kungsleden this morning. Roja wasn’t at all keen on the gondola though.

The Kungsleden, in its overnight capacity, closed a week ago. The huts are closed up, and they take out a number of bridges by helicopter as they wouldn’t survive the winter storms. That actually means it isn’t possible to do it outside the season.

I wanted something more challenging today though, so after a few kilometres I headed off to take in a couple of peaks. The first, with the wonderful name of Storkittelhobben was the top of a winter ski lift, so less rewarding as a hike, but nonetheless tremendous views from the top. The morning was the best part of the day weather-wise, with much more cloud and a strong northerly wind after midday.

From that peak, we descended heading further north, and climbed up an unnamed peak, at 1267 metres, a couple of kilometres away. This was much more enjoyable as a hike, as there was no longer any track to follow, and no view of civilisation, so a lot wilder. In addition, a reindeer herd took an interest in us.

Lunch on the peak with no name was just about possible, 3C feeling like -8C with the wind, but tucked below some rock as a form of shelter.

It was a really good mountain day. Rain showers are regular now in the early evening, so we were pretty lucky with the weather. I’m settled in for the Karachi cricket, and enjoying a cup of tea almost as much as those lucky people savouring the ‘Tapal Tea Moment’ in the stadium.