Day 53 – at Outier, Somiedo National Park

Pealing back the porthole window curtain after the usual Roja wet nose alarm at just after 7:30, a light snow covering was evident outside, so it was slower than usual progress; some extra reading, one more cup of coffee before I go… and it indeed was into the valley, as Dylan suggests, but not below, but above.

Apart from the spectacular mountain walls on both sides here, the goats and the cattle with their guard dogs, my reason to be here was to hike up the Valle de Lago to what is rather lazily called, the lake of the valley. It is situated in an amphitheatre type surround of rock walls of between 200 and 300 vertical metres. The approach most visitors take is up the main track, which could be driven in a vehicle, and is even occasionally concreted. I chose a more lengthy approach on a track called the ‘Camino de Sombras’, as it is in shadow of the north facing rock for almost all of the day. Not that that made any difference today..

On the way up, the wind was in my favour, and it was strong, lowering the temperature feel from 2C to about minus 10. Indeed, it was a day for the winter clothes, woolly hats and gloves, and merino layers. The showers fell as snow, which was dry enough not to get wet at any time.

Though the Asturias tourist board may promote pictures of the lake in clear conditions, it was equally impressive today. I met just one group of other hikers, two teachers from Santander with their son, who were at their apartment in Pola, and hiked this path quite often. They worked in the Christian Brothers school, De La Salle, which I actually am aware of, as it had an exchange with De La Salle college in Uruguay, which I visited several times with rugby.

On the return, and Roja gets to know more cattle dogs, who were noisy initially, but soon softened to a tail wagging contest..

Whereas in some places I’ve visited the dogs work is a piece of cake, and their presence is largely traditional, here there is a real threat to the cattle, the young in particular, of wolves, lynx and bears. The dogs are out with the cows round the clock.

It was the longest hike I’ve undertaken so far, and to be honest, the cold weather suits both me and the dog better. We were back at the van at 4 pm, having left just after 11 am, for a couple of hours online work before tea and biscuits.

Outside the snow continues, on and off, with a temperature just above zero, so very little settles. Tomorrow is due to be warmer, and even with some sunshine.