Day 58 – to Maraña

Up at Cobertoria was a great place to stay. At 5 in the morning the night sky was as clear and dark as could be hoped for. The nearest village was a long way, even the nearest habitation was. It was one of those places that the freedom of having the van allows, no one is disturbed, no one even knows I was there, and the place is left as I arrived. Having a smaller van helps, and knowing it’s limitations also. It had been tempting to head higher to the refuge on arrival, but the loose stone track would have proved difficult, if not impossible.

It was a stock up morning. My route took me down and across the León-Oviedo motorway via the town of Pola de Lena. I stocked up at Mercadona, the equivalent of a Sainsburys in the UK, but with smaller prices. After a fuel fill up, and AdBlue also, it was back up into the high country, over three mountain passes.

First was the San Isidro Pass at 1561 metres. This area is a big ski area, and those who have read my witterings before know that I am not a fan of these places. This had all the markings I dislike, huge ugly hotels, vast car parks and an infrastructure that is a ghost town in effect in all but two months. Skiing is dying, but what will we do with all the places like this.

However, up a small track to the back enabled me to get away from the main area, and take a couple of hours to hike and have lunch. In a bowl at 1700 metres surrounded by mountain walls it was warm, 26C, away from the cool wind.

I had originally thought I would stay up here, but the ski infrastructure put me off. So I continued on, north on a smaller road in dreadful condition to the Tarna pass, at 1490 metres, then a rough track vaguely south east to the village of Maraña, which is more easily reachable from the west, but the long way round.

Below, a water fill up at Marana, with the backdrop of rock for which the area is well known to climbers.

Here in Maraña there is an Auberge, a hostel, that offers free places for campervans, though most I guess take advantage of the electric and a shower. My only luxury was a beer.

It’s a fantastic place to stay, for a few days I think. It has exceptional hiking and biking opportunities, and is at the relatively low altitude of 1260 metres. It was just about warm enough at 7 pm to sit outside, and I am still amazed that I am the only van here. There were a few locals having a beer after work, all very friendly, with the usual cattle dogs passing by to say hello to Roja.