Day 61 – to Oseja de Santambre

A couple of cars arrived late last evening, both of guys up from Madrid for a weekend in the mountains. It really is a superb location, and the hostel is a big part of that as well. Both groups left just before 9 this morning, which is very early for the Spanish, but the weather was due to change mid-afternoon.

I attended to the usual chores, emptied waste water, filled up with fresh water, got rid of the recycling, and was away, again to the east, and into the Picos de Europe National Park. I have been here twice before, but both times in the north. At this time of year, there is significantly more sun on the south side of the mountains.

Way back when I was working in Lytham, I think 2003, I came over one Easter week with a hire car from the airport and camping gear. It rained on and off all week, but some of the walking was good. The thing I remember the most, was that all the bars and restaurants were so empty, and their staff so surprised anyone was there.

The other time was autumn 2019, travelling in the T5 that I had at the time. I had been in the Pyrenees, and as winter got closer, took a self catering apartment in the incredibly situated village of Tresviso.

Initially I headed for Oseja de Sajambre, and then beyond, on a spectacular mountain road, to Soto de Sajambre, photo above. There was a hike, up to a pasture at 1400 metres at the Vegebaño pass, that I wanted to do. Originally I was going to do this tomorrow, but the weather was still really good, and I arrived there earlier than I thought I would, so I went for it today. Though longer in distance than what I have been doing this week, at 9 miles, it was much easier going, and I was there and back, with a leisurely lunch the the pass, in four hours.

Up at the pass there are a few old fincas, converted from shepherd’s huts years ago, before it became prohibited to to make such conversions in the National Park. They look tremendous, below, because there is so few of them, and they still very much fit in with the environment.

I descended the road back into Oseja for the night. It’s a Friday, and a rugby night, and the 4G signal was strong. Also, which I didn’t know at the time, there are two good bars, directly opposite each other, to which I ventured in the early evening.

There was a Dutch guy, a solo traveler, in a van already there. He was out on a sunlounger in just speedos. By this time, the weather hadn’t changed, but the front was on its way through. He had a new pre-converted campervan worth about 70K, with hydraulic stands underneath to make it level. Also a covered trailer, with two motorbikes and an electric bicycle. I went over to say hello, determined not to prejudge, but it was as I might have guessed, if I had allowed myself to. So I kept my distance. As I left to walk into the village for a beer, he was doing yoga and being watched by pretty much the whole population of the locals.

And to finish, a pair of Mediterranean firebugs I spotted. They are not that rare, and can even be seen in the UK, but more so in warmer climates. They are easy to identify with the black spots and triangle and the red backs. This pair are mating, hence linked, and therefore travelling together, as mating can last up to 7 days..