Safe Return Doubtful

Sumburgh Head and its lighthouse is at the southernmost tip of Shetland’s Mainland island. It is the most popular tourist destination outside of Lerwick, though today, in the height of the summer season, and on a relatively warm and sunny day (16C) it had about 50 people there while I visited.

It has a spectacular setting, the 56 foot building standing on rock 300 feet above sea level, with jagged cliffs surrounding all but its north side. Of course it attracts a huge variety seabirds, but because of its elevation, it is a great place to see them. It isn’t rare to spy several species of whale, dolphins and seals in the surrounding ocean. Its lighthouse was the first built in Shetland, in 1821, and constructed by the original Lighthouse Stevenson, Robert. From 1906 to 1987 it also had a foghorn, a smaller and quieter version of which is in place for tourists today. The light was automated in 1991, relatively late for a Scottish lighthouse, and subsequently the keepers’ accommodation was turned into accommodation and some years later, a cafe and museum. The RSPB have offices here also.

Roja and I did the necessary, parked up, walked up the path to the lighthouse, and then the hill to the south from which a better view can be had. Initially I had thought I would stay a night or two here, but the amount of visitors put me off. My second researched choice also wasn’t appealing on actually seeing it, as this is also Shetland’s International Airport (LoganAir flies to Bergen and the Faroes from here).

We therefore drove back over the airport runway, on a simple traffic light system, which I can’t say I’ve done before, to the more low-lying peninsula of land adjacent, the Ness of Burgi.

The contrasting days of weather Shetland is experiencing at the moment is, I am reliably informed by knowledgeable locals, due to the effects of being close to the massive storm (Hans) that has just caused mayhem in Norway. Today was calm, sunny and warm, but tomorrow has 45 mph winds and driving rain coming again.

In the best weather or the day was hiked out into the spectacular Ness of Burgi, with its leeward side geos being favoured by seals and shags, and the waves crashing into the ocean side with skuas and terns playing amongst them.

We’re parked up at the end of the small road, just opposite a reasonably new energy efficient house whose owner and his kids came to say hello during the evening. They had been watching Roja, and had a young female black Labrador themselves, as Roja already knew, and wanted some tips on calming her down. The guy was himself an environmental engineer, who has moved up from Aberdeen after starting then selling a business designing carbon neutral public toilet buildings for several years. Watersports now dominate his life, this morning in the 45 mph winds he was off windsurfing; toilet design is something from his past.