Safe Return Doubtful

I hadn’t expected much, but the last trek of this course on Shetland, the Ness of Sound, was excellent. The car park I had used is only half a mile from Lerwick town and yet completely quiet, and though it attracts a few walkers and joggers in the daytime, there was no one around from evening onwards.

The day was also a warm and sunny one for Shetland, the first day at 16C since June, when I even went swimming a few times. The hike finished at Lerwick’s beach, and it was busy, notably with school-aged children who return to school tomorrow. A last hurrah. I can’t think of many kids around the world who would swim and enjoy the beach in just regular costumes, not wet suits, at 16C.

Prior to that the arrow-shaped headland of the Sound of Ness has decent sized cliffs, of 30 to 40 metres, with the ocean waves crashing in and a backdrop of blue sky with the overnight mist clearing.

The ferry left at 5 pm and arrived in Orkney, to Kirkwall, at 11 pm. It then continues with most of its passengers, to Aberdeen. Every other day it goes direct, without an Orkney call-in.

The seas were calm, and I got through a mixture of work and reading, the only EL Doctorow novel I haven’t read, his novel of the American Civil War, The March (all of his books are tremendous).

At Kirkwall, with Orkney shrouded in mist, I drove across the island to Stromness, and it’s coastline just beyond that, where I knew of a good place to park-up from my visit a couple of years ago. Similar to where I was in the morning at Ness or Sound, this coast was heavily defended in World War II and the there are the remains of shelters and gun emplacements.

After an hour out in the morning, we continued the journey to the Scottish mainland with the Stromness to Scrabster ferry, just 90 minutes, and one which for some reason, Roja is allowed on the main decks. He befriended a chocolate Labrador which was travelling with two poodles, and the four of them just slept in a big heap together, while I continued with Doctorow.

My LPG has lasted, I’m sure readers will be delighted to hear. I filled up at the first chance, which was near Brora. The tank took 5.4 litres, which indicates I had 1.3 litres left, probably about 10 days at the rate I was using it. So my cooking and kettle, 3 or 4 kettles a day, and evening meal, cost about £5 for 60 days since I last filled up.

Tonight I’m at Glen Devon, near the town of Dollar. I had chosen here as it seems a good place to stop, and also has good hiking. The rain was heavy when we arrived though, so the walk was a short one.

There’s an immediate shock of course for the amount or people around generally, and the busy roads of the North Coast 500 packed with campervans, having seen so few for the last 8 weeks. Also, the ability to stop pretty much anywhere you want, and not just stop, be made welcome also. Glen Devon, close to Gleneagles, is on estate land, and most car parks have signs that forbid overnight stays. On a B road up a hill I found one that didn’t.. but Shetland this isn’t.

I’ll be in Cumbria tomorrow for a few days with friends. The van is in for a new timing belt, and I’ve some other things to sort. The next post is likely to be at the weekend.