Safe Return Doubtful

I started the day on Monday with a hike up to the peak of Špičák from Oldřichov where I was the night before. We were out early, just after 8, and back at 10:30 for coffee. 

I then drove about fifty kilometres west in a roundabout way, but roughly along the Sudeten range to the Lusatian Mountains that straddle the Czech Republic- German border. To the west and across the Elbe lie the Ore mountains. The Germans more regularly call these the Zittau mountains. The rock is generally sandstone, and the erosion of them over the years has formed many columns which the area is famous for. 

I’m parked up at the village of Dolní Světlá the end of a road that one can continue only on bike or on foot to the German border and across to Waltersdorf. There are a cluster of hotels and pensions which all offer food and drink, but only one of them is open in the midweek. There are a few hikers and cyclists around, mostly German. The price of the accommodation is similar to what it would be in Germany, but the food and drink, particularly the beer, is much cheaper. It’s the sort of area that would be very busy at the weekends. 

The weather is typical for the time of year, with a high of about 13C, and a low of about 4C. It’s been dry, but there is a day of rain forecast tomorrow. 

We headed out for a couple of hours on foot along the border at last light, about 6 pm, before calling in for a beer. Czech beer isn’t the sort of beer I would usually drink, but other than that pint on the Helsinki seafront last week with Richard (at 10 euros each) I haven’t been in a pub since April, so it went well. For a pilsner, Czech beer isn’t that bad also; indeed, they are renowned for it. Though no dogs were supposed to be allowed inside, the woman serving said it was no problem, and more, she brought over water and snacks for Roja, and sat with him for ten minutes. He does enjoy the attention. 

This morning I put together a wider circuit that took in some interesting sandstone rock towers just into Germany, called Nonnenfelsen, or the Nun’s Rock. There is a popular Via Ferrata here also, though there were just a couple of people on it today. 

We were back for a late lunch and I spent the afternoon catching up on book reviews, and making a rough plan for the next few weeks. 

I have booked the return Le Shuttle for the early morning of 23 October. Strictly my Swedish extension visa runs out at the end of 21st, so I will be one day overstaying. The plan is to continue along the Sudeten mountains and then branch off through the industrial area around Frankfurt into Belgium. I’m keen for a few days to continue exploring small breweries in Belgium which I began in January. 

By way of a small tribute, I want to mention the death of Kris Kristofferson. His music and films have been there throughout my life, though I have really only appreciated his music later in life. Me And Bobby McGee is one of my all time best, top five maybe even. It’s the ideal road song, inspired by the Fellini film, La Strada. It must have the perfect opening lines (“Busted flat in Baton Rouge … feelin’ near as faded as my jeans”). The version is always important; indeed it was covered by so many, including Janis Joplin, Dolly Parton, Willie Nelson, Johnny Cash and the Grateful Dead. Some argue the Joplin version is the best, but I point towards his version when part of the Highwaymen.. it’s here. 

There’s only Willie Nelson left now, at 91.