Safe Return Doubtful

The camp up above the road tunnel at Sørskaret was a good one and I did consider staying a few days, but it is hardly wild, being just 15 kilometres from Tromso. Most visitors are locals that come for a run or a walk, a dog walk, or a bike…

Two splendid outings today after an early start. I had taken the ferry between Brensholmen and Bottnham (Senja) in 2016 during my bikepacking trip, but in a southerly direction. It was raining and cold, and there were few people around. Right now, we are in a fine spell of weather,…

On Sunday the various forecasts I use had all predicted a fine day, but the cloud didn’t listen, and refused to budge. Mid-morning we took on a hike to see the Monk of Senja, a rock that resembles a hooded monk. There is a child-friendly sign that hints at supernatural…

For two days now the magnificent peaks of Senja have been under wraps, concealed by low cloud and mist. As I write the sky is clearing for a fine week. Those peaks are starting to show themselves, and as the cloud ascends and disappears the gradual reveal is special indeed.…

Leaving the island of Bjarkøya I continued on the long way round to get to the island of Senja, by way of the islands of Grytøya, Rolla and Andørja. Small as Grytøya is, it is a mountaineer’s paradise, but the hiking is at a low level, above 300 metres, and…

The vast bulk of tourist traffic, the convoy of motorhomes, campervans and cars with roof tents plod their way slowly northwards from Stave to Andesnes, departing the Vesterålen islands by ferry to the island of Senja, where they stick to highway 86 to head from Tromso and north to the…

I’ve been four days at Stave beach which was busy when I arrived but after a day of rain yesterday there is hardly anyone here today. I’m at a campsite as Andøya is popular with visitors particularly at this time of year, and wild camping is forbidden in most, if…