Day 5 Waterton Village Park to Rising Sun

55 miles (89 km) – Total so far: 245 miles (394 km)

After the debacle of the Thirsty Bear I managed to find the much more upmarket Fireside Lounge of the Bayview Inn. The fire was certainly lit as it was below 10 degrees most of the day. Heavy showers and winds gusting up to 70 mph meant a day of cafes and reading. The rangers weren’t letting cyclists out, the problem being the RVs rocking all over the roads. One had hot a cyclist yesterday afternoon in another part of the park. These RVs are the same size as coaches, and the drivers don’t need any special licence to drive them – and they two large 4x4s behind them.

Back to the bar, I digress. The only draft beer was Big Sky, and there were 3 on. The Grasshopper which I had a few nights ago (wheat beer at 5.2), Traditional English at 5% and the McNallys Special Irish at 5.7%. Padres and Cubs on TV and I was set.

Early start though this morning, and whilst breaking camp chatting with the Swiss in the tents next to me, and two female hikers from Minnesota. Also Fred, who had slept in the lean-to kitchen as his tent was destroyed. We were the only campers left. All others had left yesterday afternoon because of damaged tents of despondency. Fred was going my way, but wasn’t keen to ride together. He said he would be a lot slower than me…. I struggle to believe that.

After a buffet breakfast with cereal for the first time here, I was away at 8:45 am (a bit leisurely after being up at 6:30). Today’s ride was straight from the top drawer. The Brazilian rider I spoke to yesterday had said it would be good. Amazing scenery, and great hills, basically making a 200 degree round of Chief Mountain. From 1200 metres at Waterton up to 1700 metres, down to 1200 and up again to the border, which will be one of the quieter US frontiers. Chatted with the two guys for a while, who found me a weather forecast and a potted history of the border post with photos, from its days of just tents in the 1920’s. The season is very short here. The post only opens 4 months a year. In the depth of winter the buildings are totally covered with snow. A skidoo rides up daily to check the cameras.

From the border, down to 1300 metres, then up to 1768 meters, the high point of the day, before descending rapidly to the bigger highway 89. The riding was made tougher as the south-west wind was still strong, gusting up to 50 mph. Luckily only occasionally did this cause problems on the mountains, but once on Highway 89 it was a proper headache. A break in Babb, through St Mary’s and then onto the “Going to The Sun Road”. This road crosses the Divide at Logan Pass, at 6646 feet. Fortunately RVs aren’t allowed but it still gets very busy at this time of year. Cyclists must be off it between 11 and and 4 pm. You can wait at the top, but otherwise one of the passenger buses will unceremoniously pick you up.

I’m camped at Rising Sun, about 7 miles into the road, just before any climbing. The idea being to get an early start tomorrow.

Glacier National Park in High Season. A much reduced rate for me as a cyclist to enter, and hiker-biker campsites at which there is always room for $5 a night, despite the whole of the rest of the National Park being full. The Americans do look after their Parks well. They fill with a manageable amount of visitors. This site is tremendous; quiet and forested with plenty of room. And a pub next door.

Distance 55 miles Riding time 5 hrs Average speed 11 mph Max Speed 42.8 mph Departed 8:45 am Arrived 3:15 pm

Photos later… Internet too slow.