Day 2 – Lake Cowichan to the Jordan River

68 miles (109 km) – Total so far: 147 miles (236 km)

6 am and different noises outside the tent to last night. Birds and squirrels, wind in the trees. Last night wasn’t a great site at all. It was dirty; people had washed dishes at stand pipes, and dumped old food, and noisy till after midnight, which is very rare on North American sites, usually all quiet at 9:30 am. One of the motorcycle group had passed out outside his tent, and as I passed on the way to the washroom his dog was licking his face trying to wake him up.

Breakfast at the supermarket in town was the only option and on the road at 8. Today’s ride was completely different to yesterday’s in all but one aspect, the headwind. There is very little traffic on the road from Mesachie Lake and Port Renfrew, what there is are usually logging trucks, and at the moment they are not running because of the heat. The road winds its way up to 420 meters asl, then winds its way all the way down to the Port. This was great riding, not easy because of the southwesterly, but some typical Canadian forest scenery and the occasional river and lake.

I was in Port Renfrew at midday after 42 miles. There really isn’t much here. There’s a General Store, a hotel, and a cafe / bistro. 30 minutes at the bistro chatting with some motorbike people, and a similar time at the general store sorting tonight’s dinner out, as there’s nothing from here to Jordan River.

Back on the road and there a really steep uphill to 275 metres just outside Port Renfrew. I say steep, most likely 10-12% in a few places, common back home, but very rare in North America. It was warmer now also, though never a hot day, got up to early 20s. Though a steep climb the descent was very steady, and pretty much lasted all the way to Jordan River. Here there is a Park campground, basically just has a long drop and drinking water, but it is right on the ocean. There’s a few other people around, but by no means busy.

The wind is much stronger now and there are surfers out from the beach. Also romanticising above me, a pair of Sea Eagles, calling to each other in their unique way.

Future riders note that from tomorrow (no good for me…) a new restaurant is opening here, Far Out Pizza. Looks very decent, I was chatting with the owner. If you’re near tomorrow afternoon, get along, as its free while they experiment with the oven. So no pizza tonight, but the best from the Renfrew General Store.