Day 25 – Standish-Hinckley State Park to Little River (Van Damme State Park)

69 miles (111 km) – Total so far: 1,423 miles (2,290 km)

Distance 69 miles (111 km) Ride time 6 hours 2 minutes Max speed 33 mph Average speed 10.7 mph Left at 7:25 am Arrived at 4:20 pm

Both Richardson and Standish-Hinckley State Parks are under threat of closure. I expect that apart from the cyclists on the Pacific Route (who pay only $5) and others passing through there isn’t much custom. It doesn’t help that many of the local businesses have closed down. Certainly it would be a great pity for the Coast cycling route.

What the were lots of though was mosquitos. The worst site yet for them. As a bonus the Peg House just across the road was excellent. Everyone is served outside in a courtyard and it’s really just snack food. Of course they hardly get any rain, with this 3 year drought, but if they do customers are just moved onto the stage area. There was a choice of 4 draught local microbrews and the food was really good.

The hill out of Leggett is legendary amongst Pacific coast cyclists. However coming from the Cascades to go up 400 metres doesn’t seem such a big deal. In the early morning leaving highway 101 and heading to the coast on 271 or route 1 was a pleasure. It was a cool morning, almost the need of another layer, and the climb to 630 metres at about 7% took me 37 minutes. That would have been twice that 25 days ago. The downhill goes to just above sea level on a windy road with practically no traffic. No view of the ocean though as it craftily climbs to 250 meters again. Actually this section is that with most climbing on this entire route from Seattle to San Diego (just over 4,000 feet today).

Westport looked deserted shrouded in the morning mist, though I believe there are a couple of good Inns there with lodging. I didn’t break until Fort Bragg after about 50 miles, to use the cashpoint and grab a sandwich in Safeways. I was in two minds whether to stay there or not. Onwards though, and the 8 miles or so to Mendocino. This is a very smart tourist town situated on cliffs above the ocean in a spectacular setting. Prices seem high and the place was busy. I took a rare chance now in California to use the internet and headed out of town to find a camp. A mile out is Mendocino Camping. Beware. It’s a private place, and looked very quiet. Eventually the ‘manager’ answered my knock and wanted $40 for a site. Over these last 3 years riding in the U.S. That is a record. A mile further south is the Van Damme site. I didn’t know it was a State Park as I had seen it only on the map. However it is, and is $5 as usual, and has ocean access and seems excellent so far. It is full, but always space for hiker bikers of course. I will ride back into Mendocino for Patterson’s pub later, which the ranger here has told me is very good. Fuller report tomorrow.