Safe Return Doubtful

51 miles (81 km) – Total so far: 120 miles (193 km)

A remarkably good night at the lake. It’s the first time I’ve camped next to tunnels – one in use, but completely quiet after about 9 pm, the other, an old one I think. I had a walk down in to see if there was anywhere suitable to camp, but the surface was too hard. I left the bike in there though to get some shelter from the rain. While exploring, reminders of that wonderful ghost story by Charles Dickens, The Signalman. Highly recommended is the 1970s BBC version with Denholm Elliott, they knew how to scare people in those days.

Of course it’s light all night up here, 250 miles into the Arctic Circle. A cheap solution, one of the blindfolds I used on my Teaching Outdoor Education in Primary Schools, that I ran last week. Works a treat.

Steady rain all night and no sign of it abating this morning. In such conditions its 90 minutes to pack away, rather than 45, but I was on the road at 8. Onwards and upwards indeed, the gradient I had found so tough last night continued in the tunnel for another couple of km, to take the road to 300 metres, another wonderful lake, then a fast downhill back to the Arctic Ocean. At this time on a Sunday morning the roads are completely empty, the first car I passed was after 9:30. From there an undulating coastal ride, and several other tunnels, that last of them quite steeply down for 2 km, to Gryllefjord. So quiet, an otter crossed the road 20 metres in front of me, ambled, didn’t hurry, size of a dog. I had an hour until the ferry and chatted with some of the waiting camper vans and cars. A German couple took pity and made me coffee, very welcome.

The 90 minute ferry journey, at 220 NKr, was time enough for me to charge the electricals. From Andenes, now on the island of Andoy, it was just over 50 kilometres to Risoyhamn where I was headed. Plenty of time, and no hills, but the toughest riding so far, still in steady rain, but now with an unwelcome westerly, pretty much in my face throughout.

Wet tent and gear, I’ve found a B and B. Despite prices of food, drink and travel being almost double the UK, accommodation is surprisingly reasonable, this at 40 odd pounds. It gives me a chance to dry gear, more big rain tomorrow forecast, and use the Internet.

Distance 50.6 miles Left at 8:10 am, Arrived at 4:30 pm, Ride time 4 hours 40 minutes Height gained 1,699 feet

Just about to head through the Skalandtunnel, 6% incline for 2.5 km

Beach house on Andoy

Waiting for the Gryllfjord ferry, on a wet Senja morning

Flat and quite desolate in places – wind in my face, reminds me of riding on Uist

To make this hard day even tougher, it’s Sunday – and absolutely nothing opens up here (again like Uist) – so no cafes to shelter from the wind and rain, not a sausage.