Safe Return Doubtful

53 miles (86 km) – Total so far: 173 miles (279 km)

It was a good night at the S cafe. Two pairs of cyclists shared the accommodation, and great to swap stories of the road. James (Canadian) and Julia (UK) teach at a British International school by coincidence. They were drying out after a wet experience retreating from a causeway as the tide rose the previous day. Peter and his wife are Germans living in the south of Norway and have made several biking tours to the region. I got some really useful information about my proposed route from them and also the offer of a night’s accommodation just before the ferry to Denmark.

The rain was forecast to be heaviest between 10 and 12 this morning, which proved correct. It was in the often used words of the old Dylan tune, One More Cup of Coffee Before I Go). Fortunately for me, the cruise ship that meanders up and down the fjords was due to call at the Risoyhamn dock at 11 am, then to Sortland, 50 kilometres away by bike (into that westerly wind), 90 minutes later. We all took it, then headed our own ways.

Interesting to get a brief insight into life on such a cruise, not for me I am afraid, I did well to last the 90 minutes. Piped music, similar to a supermarket, regular announcements about dining times in 4 languages at considerable volume, people taking photographs through rain stained glass of clouds and mist, most of them with beers on the table at 11 am. Not just this, but the announcer asking everyone to go outside as we passed under the Sortland bridge to wave to the excursion buses that were stopped at the high point watching. People herded like cattle, and paying large amounts for the privilege.

From Sortland for me it was a 35 km ride to Stockmarknes in a similar Andoy landscape to yesterday of gentle hills, but pretty flat, straight into the westerly and the rain becoming heavier rather than lighter as forecast. From Stockmarknes a further 15 km to the ferry port of Melbu, some dinner shopping then a half hour wait for the ferry to Lofoten. At 9C and after 50 hours of rain and with nowhere to shelter I was soaked through and beginning to feel the cold. The 25 minute ferry ride only dampened my motivation to go on much longer. Character building I can hear some shout. It’s true of course, especially the older you get.

However, arriving at Fiskebol is impressive even in these conditions. Sharp peaks rise from steep green hillsides with waterfalls torrenting down them. Some of the most amazing scenery in the world, and quite unique to this island. The road around the west coast is scenic cycling route, single landed and very quiet at what was now 6 pm in the evening. Steep but short ups and downs, in and around the fjords, and as the rain finally seemed to be abating, some spectacular riding.

I caught up with Annette from Bergen, riding with a trailer from North Cape. We cycled and chatted together until arriving at a campsite. Rather than wildcamp, to have somewhere dry to change and even a restaurant was very welcome. We ate well, Lofoten fish soup, pork of the mountains, and more. My shopping from Melbu can wait until tomorrow.

As I write the rain is hammering onto the tent again. It’s the wettest and coldest summer on record in these parts, but tomorrow a better spell is threatened. We will see.

Just to clear up one thing, the rain and wind don’t make the days much less tremendous. Often it is because of them that they are more memorable. Those key questions going through the mind (pretty much the only concerns of the day); where to stay, what to eat, how steep the hill and exposed is the next section, are more important than ever.

Distance 53.2 miles Ride time 6 hours 2 minutes Left at 10:30 am. Arrived at 7:30 pm Height gained 875 feet

About to board the Hurtigruten cruise ship

Good to see Iggy Pop playing some smaller venues…

The Stockmarknes bridge, quite the highlight into the wind and rain

The town of Stockmarknes

Bike shop recommended. Managed to get hold of two small zip ties for the speedometre, which I have been looking for the last days. Free of charge also.

The ferry dock at Melbu. 9C, heavy rain and wind – hard to find shelter, settled for in front of the bus

Arriving at Fiskebol from the Melbu ferry – magnificent jagged peaks, a whole new landscape

A rural school on the quiet road around Lofoten west coast

These are what I have been pining for in the last few months…

Camp at Sandsletta

More wear and tear. This back rack has lasted me 4 trips, but today the outside bars have sheared. Hopefully okay for a couple more days, but need to find a replacement.