Safe Return Doubtful

76 miles (122 km) – Total so far: 371 miles (598 km)

I wondered why Saltstrummer was so popular, and was told later in the day by the ferryman that it has the steepest beach in the world, and is therefore pretty much unbeatable for fishing.

The camp at the back of the school worked out well, and I was away after a bit of breakfast over the high bridge to the Co-op. They had no coffee for sale, but when I asked the assistant made one for me. The majority of days riding was hilly. It was one of those days where you clock up some big height climbed metres without Bligh. Twice the road went up to 200 meters, the second time through two 6% gradient uphill tunnels. The road is magnificent to ride one. Traffic for sure, but nothing like I have been used to the last few tours. Mostly the drivers give plenty of room. It was cloudless skies for most of the day, and even quite warm, early twenties.

I had 90 km to the ferry at Ornes and was hoping to get it tonight, believing it left at 4:50 pm. It was actually a little later, but I made it with some time to spare. I write from the ferry while charging my GPS’s, neither would have lasted the day. The iPhone works fine, and is usually accurate. The Garmin Edge less so. I don’t think the altimeter is accurate, and when I climb to a height I know I will test it. At one drink stop at a fuel station a motorbiker told me that the GPS’s only update after the tunnels if they have been mapped, by Google he guessed. The majority have, but still a few I have been through don’t get recognised. In this respect the Edge and the iPhone are not the same though, perhaps because Garmin uses OSM. The iPhone again is more reliable. A problem I have mentioned, is that in the early stages of mapping tunnels, a couple of years ago, the height that showed as gained was the height as if you had gone over the mountain above the tunnel. Hence some other people’s routes I looked at having ridiculous height gained figures.

How far to ride after the ferry? It arrived at 6:15 pm and it was 30 km to a recommended campsite (by the ferryman). I thought I may fade, I was incorrect, it had not been mid-twenties, but 33C at one point, still thirties now. After a stiff start on the uphill away from the ferry it was easy to realise this now was fantastic riding. Views of the glacier, clear skies, lots of ups and downs, and pretty fast. Road traffic rarely take this route, as there is a 10 km tunnel further east, so it’s much quicker and cheaper for them. I had done 20 kilometres before I knew it. Just as I was thinking of finishing within an hour, there came two 100 metre hills. At this end of the day I am slow, and they were hard work.

Furoy Camping is well worth it though. The views across the fjord are exceptional, pretty quiet also, showers, wifi, excellent kitchen, and 150 NKR. Certainly the best campsite so far.

Distance 75.9 km Left at 9:05 am Arrived at 8:05 pm Time riding 6 hours 21 minutes Height gained 5474 feet

Good place to camp – back of the busy and expensive campground

Fantastic conditions – cloudless sky, into the 30s

Lunch stop – shade needed. Didn’t think I’d be saying that 3 days ago.

Longest tunnel yet – pleasantly cool within

Looking up to the glacier from the road to Esoya

Ferry time once again – in Ornes

At the top of the last climb of the day. Still in the 30s at almost 8 pm.