Day 15 – Trollstigen Camping to Geiranger

50 miles (81 km) – Total so far: 912 miles (1,467 km)

This spectacular day of cycling began and ended with heavy rain. It had rained all night and just as it lightened at 8:30 am I took the chance to get out of the tent. The forecast was for light rain all morning, but there was no more.

The ride started with a steady 6% incline for a couple of kilometres before the famous Trollstigen began. By this time there was traffic, my plan had been to leave earlier but the rain put paid to that. The Trollstigen climb makes maths easy. It’s 10% steep, except for a few parts that are 11. So over the 7 kilometre climb it gains 700 metres, of just above. From the cafe there’s another 100 or so to the pass at 880 metres. Norwegians don’t seem to celebrate highest points such as this very much. Quite disappointing.

From the pass there is in effect a 25 kilometre downhill to Valldal. It’s a pretty gradual gradient, but fast all the way. A few kilometres out of Valldal there’s a ferry across the fjord. I rode directly on to it as it was leaving. The ferry goes to Eidsdal, a picturesque little village without the steep peaks arising around it. Instead it’s a steady climb from there for about 7 kilometres at 500 metres. This is the Eagles Road, or Orneveien. It continues to go up occasionally until the famed point on the road where at just over 700 metres it looks down to Geiranger fjord. Since the tunnel about 3 km back though I now had rain, the view was still magnificent. The descent to the fjord is at 10% and on wet roads, so pretty hard work on the brakes.

Geiranger fjord is the most photographed in Norway, and certainly the most spectacular. Steep peaks arise in every direction. It is a huge place for tourists also with several smart hotels all fitted into a very small space possible to build on. The camp site is on the fjord. I expected high prices, but it was 130 NKR. It seems only those sites up in Lofoten were ridiculously expensive. A few cafes and restaurants here also. The kitchen in the site was poor, and there was heavy rain showers. I opted for an excellent burger an chips in a restaurant. At 170 NKR it’s almost as much as I would spend in the supermarket anyway.

This is tremendous day of cycling. It ranks up with one of the very best. The climbs, the views, and indeed the descent make it extremely special and memorable. It was always going to be a highlight of the tour, and it surpassed my expectations.

Distance 50.2 miles Left at 11:10 am Arrived at 6:40 pm Time riding 5 hours 21 minutes Height ascended 1800 metres