Safe Return Doubtful

7 miles (124 km) – Total so far: 790 miles (1,271 km)

There was a good atmosphere in the smallest Brewery in Montana last night. It’s been done on a tiny budget but the shed and rough decor help it out. Lots of chat also, about beer of course, and a guy walking across the US.

I was away at first light to breakfast in town then the 18 miles to Sula, gradually uphill before the pass properly started. I met the 6 supported riders at the store there. They go up to the pass also, but then left to Wisdom on the Trans American route. I rode that part 4 years ago.

The Chief Joseph Pass is 7,251 feet so the highest for me yet this tour and just over 1,000 metres ( feet) climbing – so not the biggest climb. I am stronger now though 12 days in and from Sula at 9:30!i was at the top, 13.5 miles of climbing, at 11:45. Some conversation at the top with people trying to get out of the smoke on the north side of the pass, but descending southwards there was less. A slightly cooler day also helped.

This was a great ride today, a big climb with great scenery, though obviously the views would have been better if smokeless. The descent is of high quality and a lot less vehicles on the side going south. There is nothing between Sula and North Fork, 41 miles later, so it was good to grab a sandwich at the North Fork store. Here the Salmon River forks, and my route starts going gradually back uphill. It is a long day also, as there are still 22 miles left from here.

Century 2 campsite is well-looked after by Robert, who is well into his 70s. He is very careful giving instructions, but clearly loves his role as host. It’s an extra $5 making it $20 to get riverside but well worth it.

The sun coming up in Darby, 9C only

The small town of Sula – just one shop – and meeting the ‘supported’ riders from the campsite last night

The Trans American route heads left at the Chief Joseph Pass – I continue on Route 93 to Salmon

At the Pass, and back into Idaho – I am blocking the sign…

A boost of a new road surface for the downhill – and less smoke this side of the mountain

Storytime:

Park Cricket

Playing cricket at Birkenhead Park in the 1980s was a lot of fun. The cast of characters that were the 2nd XI players bonded incredibly well. The team had huge success on the field, with several Championships in those years, but as is often the case it was the humour on and off the pitch that was memorable. Martyn and Joe particularly are still very good friends.

Nigel came into that side when he was 16 and played for 5 years, though he was in and out of the First XI. I played also in it, and many of us still stay in touch. Americans particularly will love the idea of a ‘cricket tea’, and the tradition side of it is probably why it still exists. At the turn around of innings, usually the midpoint of a 6 hour Saturday afternoon game, there is a 20 minute break, during which as well as changing equipment, and the various other matters needing attending to, there is ‘tea’. In some clubs this is a very grand affair, sandwiches, quiches, pies, sausage rolls, and usually an extraordinary range of cakes. If you are batting top 4 or fielding afterwards, to eat that in 15 minutes is a challenge indeed, and not the ideal preparation for activity. Such haste led many of the Birkenhead Park side to cram the pockets of their white trousers with biscuits and buttered sticky breads. When the captain’s eyes went elsewhere the slip cordon would continue munching.

Nigel was part of the First XI team that won the Championship in 1988. He had played only the odd game in the majority of the season but came in for the last 6 matches which Park won and came from nowhere to win the title. In the local derby game on the August Bank Holiday he had a match winning performance with 40 runs and a couple of great catches at short leg. I think he was the only person who would field there, there were no helmets in those days.