Day 44 – at Hoya del Portillo (above Capileira)

Hikers generally take at least two days to scale Spain’s highest peak, Mulhacén, at 3482 metres. One reason being that it’s quite luxurious to stay at the Refugio Poqueira, with dinner, beers and a sauna. Camping is illegal in most places, except next to the Refugios (there are a couple of other basic ones), or at an area at Siete Lagunas. Most who go to Siete Lagunas though do so for that experience itself. The 1100 metres ascent from Poqueira Refuge is, I am told, a steep and less scenic grunt than the walk in. Neighbouring mountains offer the climber more of a challenge and the hiker a more varied experience.

I had picked out a circuit that took in the magnificent footpath to the refuge, and the peak of Alto del Chorillo on return. I left at just after 10.30 and was back just after 3.30, just over 11 miles, or 17.5 kilometres. The first half in particular, was a delight, passing wild mustang, long horned cattle with far better temperaments than those at home, and no other people at all.

Lunch was at the turn around point at a rock tower a couple of kilometres up from the refuge, as it met the track that is used by a daily supply vehicle, staff and emergency vehicles. I did meet a few people on the track return, heading for the refuge to climb Mulhacén tomorrow, a Romanian couple, a Latvian couple, and even an American. They were missing out by not taking the slightly longer footpath on the other side of the ridge. This was the first American I had met this trip, as it remains so difficult for them to travel to Europe. This guy had camped high, with a huge rucksack, and looked exhausted, brewing himself some tea. He was from upstate New York, where I mentioned to him I had studied, 30 years ago. It was only ten minutes later walking on, that I realised it was 40, no 41, years ago. Umm.

I moved the van a kilometre back down the road on return as it was in a wooded area, but now with a view across the valley, and a spectacular sunset. It was a really good day.