Day 13 – to Utanc, Lake Bohinj

After a lap around the meadows of Jezersko with those spectacular snowy rock faces as backdrop, I bid my farewells to the mayor and his family and was off.

I picked up some bargain Slovenian fuel at just 1.48€ per litre, about 80€ for the tank, approximately half of the price of the German autobahn, I drove the descending curves to Kranj, 25 km away, and a supermarket.

From there through the tourist trap of Bled into the Triglav National Park.

I was in Bled 4 years ago when cycling the Balkans. It had been summer then, and was packed, with its scenic lake and castles built on precarious cliff faces it is Slovenia’s best known attraction. 4 years ago, I stopped for a few minutes for a photograph and rode on. Today, though quieter, not even that.

I was headed up to Lake Bohinj, 20 or so kilometres into the National Park, and specifically to Utanc, at the western end of the lake. Slovenia isn’t as tolerant of campervans as it’s neighbouring countries. Pretty much every parking area has charges in the high season, and forbids campervans all year, and this is enforced.

In Utanc I knew there was a campsite, but at first pulled into a parking lot which had a couple of others vans in it.

I got chatting to a guy in a Slovenian van I parked next to. He had descended the cable car and his snowboarding earlier than his family to make a business call, and told me it was quite possible to stay overnight here, as the parking was private.

The campsite just below was still closed, due to construction of a new toilet block.

Later in the afternoon I took a walk to the lake with the dog, and got talking to the campsite manager. He said I was welcome to stay at the site, though he could not charge me due to the construction work. For me, a perfect scenario. There were two other vans there, some Polish people, and a German family I had met when walking, and mentioned to them.

The lake shore to ourselves, a cloudless sky, and very peaceful – the very opposite of the way this place would be in a couple of months. Wonderful.

Though the small town of Utanc does attract a lot of seasonal visitors, two of its large hotels are derelict. They were built for skiing, and the area just doesn’t attract that many for the snow. Three years vacant now, they have windows smashed and have been unofficial venues for raves. There is some talk of renovation, but this isn’t a good time for that sort of economic investment.