Day 80 – to Mysuseter, Rondane National Park

I’m not good at goodbyes. I had been 9 days in the Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjell National Park and as I set out this morning to walk, I was already planning my return.

In addition my timing was off. I wanted firstly to finish my book, Mr Bowling Buys A Newspaper (more on that in due course), in time for the start of the cricket from Canberra, then get a couple of hours out (router with radio commentary in backpack), before moving off to the town of Oppdal for a much needed supermarket stock up, a sauna and shower if I can find one, then head a hundred kilometres or so south.

But after my leg loosened, I got a bit carried away with the walk up the opposite side of the valley to where I had been yesterday, and we were out much longer than I planned. But who cares, that is one of the great things about not having to adhere to any schedule closely.

The cabins are all in spectacular situations, but there is still a huge range in their value, from the traditional ones like Henrik’s in need of much repair, to some worth about 300,000 euros. There’s obviously a building standard and style that needs to be adhered to, though I saw one brick one, below. Almost all are off-grid so use solar and wind power, with a back up generator, which is frowned upon and gradually being phased out. It makes for a strange mix of old and new technology with the solar panels and the grass roofed insulation.

Back at the van I got talking to a guy about my age who had a summer farm up here, and was out to do a few jobs. It turned out we had a lot in common, and his degree was in limnology, which I must confess I wasn’t aware of.

It is the study of inland aquatic ecosystems, a sort of marine biology for fresh water. As part of his study he had spent two months in the spring in the early 1980s in the Lake District. I learnt quite a lot more about the area. For example, the cows that passed me with the two girls yesterday were Tyrol Greys, usually from Austria and Italy. They produce an excellent quality of milk and beef. The cheese made from the milk is much sort after, hence the new small seasonal business up the valley at the mountain hut, that I referred to yesterday.

I got to Oppdal just after 2 pm, stocked up at the CoOp in the middle of town which conveniently was adjacent to a sports facility, for a quick hour long shower and sauna. It’s more challenging to use my outdoor shower in the van these cooler days. The showers of snow continued to squall this morning, but with no sun, so the temperature didn’t get above 5C.

Then the less interesting part of the day, back onto the E6 and south over a wild new barren section of about 20 kilometres over 800 meters. Back on the E6 there are quite a few motorhomes and campervans. I hadn’t seen any for the last 10 days or so. It does see don’t wander far from the country’s many arterial road. For the motorhomes, at their size, and with their need for regular hook up, it is understandable, but I expected campervans might wander a bit further. Could be they don’t want to make a cock up of a reverse on a steep gravel track and need a tractor to rescue them..

I’m parked up at almost 900 metres asl, I’m Rondane National Park. Straight away it’s evident this a different National Park to those I have been in so far, in that it’s infrastructure is geared to dealing with considerably more visitors. It is only 3 hours from Oslo. More on that tomorrow..