Day 9 – at Moreira Beach
Rather than move from this wonderful little bay, I hiked over to the peninsula of Cape Touriñán, on the Camino dos Faros, through farmland.
The lighthouse is the westernmost point in Spain. Though not the westernmost of the European mainland, twice a year, at the beginning of spring (starting 20 March) and the end of summer, Cape Touriñán becomes the last shadow for the sunset in continental Europe, known as the ‘finis solis’.
The lighthouse, which I expect gets plenty of visitors at the weekends and in season was completely empty, but at the headland, on the rocks just below the lighthouse, Roja sniffed out a golden retriever. He belonged to a French couple in a motorhome who must have snuck down the road unnoticed. We chatted for a while in a mixture of languages. They were pre-Macron era retirees, a similar age to myself.
I left them to shelter on leeward side for some lunch, and took the track around the perimeter of the headland, meeting them again as we rejoined the mainland.
Returning through the farm tracks we slowed on spotting two sheep dogs with some cattle and sheep. There was a stand-off at about thirty metres, all three dogs with humps up staring each other out for a minute or so, until they responded to my call, and that of an elderly and toothless shepherdess, swaddled in jumpers, coats and wraps. I struggled to understand her at first, but she was very friendly. I soon realised the dogs were two females, and the woman made a shagging sign with one finger of her right hand passing into a ring made from two on the other hand. I was quite shocked at first, but it did explain the dogs’ interest in Roja, and his in them. It was quite a funny encounter.
It was an afternoon of a few hours work and a catch-up on my book reviewing which is a bit busier than usual as it’s end of the month summaries..
A second night at this little bay, which ranks up there with the very best stopovers..
Safe Return Doubtful 
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