Day 12 – to Castro Laboreiro
My mission in Monção was to hike the Caminho dos Mortos, or the ‘Walk of the Dead’.
It earns its name as it used to be what we would call in the Lake District, a Corpse Road; a track upon which the dead were carried to their burial by ox-drawn carts, or even carried by people, which the path demands in several places.


Also, there is a Neolithic burial mound from 4,000 BC, though it is difficult to make it out from the landscape into which it has now blended.


With no one around except for the off shepherd, it was a tremendous time to hike the route, though it was cold at the start, it warmed to 17C in the afternoon. The temperature had sunk below zero overnight, but only just. It was four hours or so, very well spent.
The first of the photos below is of the trail going through a property up in the hills, with about 20 dogs. Most of them were in the caged area, but four or five welcomed us, and were very friendly. My guess is that it was some sort of refuge.




Monção isn’t quite in the National Park, but serves as a perfect introduction. It is the first walk in the Cicerone book Walking in Portugal. On return I moved on into the Park itself, and to Castro Laboreiro, and it’s spectacular setting amongst the mountains at 950 metres above sea level. It’s name is from the hill fort, the ruin of which sits in a striking position on the jagged rock of the mountain that looks over the town. The fort dates back to the 12th century, though the area has archeological sites that date back far further, with evidence of very early human occupation.
I wandered into town for a beer. All of the hotels / restaurants were open, but there were hardly any people around. Perhaps there will be later. But I’m tucked away a couple of kilometres out at the start of some hiking trails.







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