Day 29 – at Pitões das Júnias

Mornings after a coffee I recline on the side seat with the van door open and read for an hour or so. Here in rural Portugal, I am usually disturbed at some time, by a cow, a goat, or a dog, all very friendly, though Roja is less convinced about the huge horned cattle.

Today I had my eye on another coffee though, and started my explore of the local area off with a visit into town, and a coffee, at a place obviously popular with locals. Good to see also, that coffee here tends to remain at one euro..

It is a spectacularly situated village, though I’m sure it’s gets many days of wind from up the valley, and many days when it is in the cloud. Tourism seems to be only a small part of the place. Though there are some fantastic looking holiday homes, with wonderful glass fronted viewpoints, there are at least three times as many local homes, some of which are practically falling down. Some are for sale, and it could be they will be redeveloped with the money for cities.

From town I headed off the the waterfall. It was a pleasant walk, accompanied by an elderly female farmer, who talked non-stop to me throughout the few hundred metres. I understood less than ten words, though it was indeed very amusing. I think, she was complimenting Roja…

Having been in Scandinavia just a few months ago, I have to admit that I am all waterfalled out. On arrival, they are almost always, an anti-climax, unless, as in a week ago above Geres, it has been hammering with rain for several days. But the walk itself was rewarding.

From there, just over a small pass, is the old ruined Monastery of Santa Maria das Júnias. It’s origin is uncertain, but it is generally attributed to the 9th century, populated by Benedictine monks until the 12th century, Cistercians after that. In 1835 it was in such a state of disrepair that it was abandoned.

I suspect there’s going to be a few photographs and descriptions of chapels and monasteries in the next few weeks.. it’s just this part of the world, please don’t think I’ve become all religious. I’ll make it very clear if I’m converted by my experiences.

It was intentionally a morning hike only. We were back for a leisurely lunch, and I went out on the bike in the afternoon. I was not sure about a road to the north of here that goes across the Spanish border, then back into Portugal to Tourem. It seemed a small road, and I wasn’t sure it was all paved. I do look on Streetview, but not all of it is available to see – besides, it was a really good ride. I had in mind returning on an off-road track higher up to the east, but will need more time for this.

It is paved, and quite driveable, it’s just the narrow cobbled streets getting through Pitões that present any problem.