Day 48 – to Trabáu Pass (1078 m)

A cool morning with the only sign of life being a fly-fisherman in the river. The Spanish generally aren’t early risers, especially on this long weekend. I wandered into the town get some bread, then we packed up and departed, filling up with fuel initially; the price has dropped again which is good news, €1.47 a litre.

I drove up the Navia valley, slowly. The roads are incredible in these Galician foothills of the Bierzos. It’s 15-20 mph throughout, with steep ups and downs, and many obtuse curves. They would make for tremendous cycling, and are almost devoid of any motorists. The various roads, including over the Ancares Pass, have featured in the Vuelta race several times. They make driving a complete pleasure.

The 60 kilometres took about 90 minutes to drive. After San Antolin the road has a newer surface, and is wider, but it isn’t much quicker to drive. At my destination I am about 10 kilometres, as that straight line crow flies, from Ancares pass, where I was two days ago.

My destination was the Trabáu Pass at 1078 m, where I had seen a picnic area that looked suitable. Passes also have a decent 4G signal which I was hoping for, as it’s a European Rugby weekend.

The pass was indeed excellent, with good hiking, and a place just possible to get to up a steep stony track.

Looking down at the village of Trabáu..

There was another van below, about a 100 metres away, a Basque couple, and we chatted and exchanged recommendations a few times during the afternoon.

Note the drinking vessel by the fountain. Very useful, and wonderful water..

From the pass there are two similar hiking trails, both named after a local man who died in 2020, Quei Victorino, a guy who spent his life farming, mining, and later on, running a craft workshop in the village below.

It’s a very pleasant little trail, ascending the small (at 1254 metres, compared to the surrounding mountains of Bierzos) hill behind where I am parked. It does give excellent views for many miles in all directions.

I have identified this (above) as a smooth snake. They are usually difficult to see, as camouflage well by twisting around plants. When in the open, they remain motionless, but will bite if disturbed. I probed this with my stick gently, and it reacted as predicted. It is not however, venomous.

It’s claim to fame is that it is ovoviviparous – it’s eggs are incubated internally, meaning that it gives birth to live young.

There are 13 species of snake found in Spain, and the smooth snake prefers, like me, the mountainous Cantabrian region.

Though the day had started at just 6C at 8 in the morning, the late afternoon as up to 26C. Pleasant with a breeze though to watch some rugby and for the dog to lay low.