Day 64 – Cares Gorge – then at Posada de Valdeón

A tremendous day on the Cares Gorge route, one of the most famous paths in Europe.

I had chosen not to do this 3 years ago, but I can’t remember why. I guess I was headed for the self-catering rental and hadn’t wanted to stop long at Poncebos. It was October, a lot colder, and the first snow of the winter had come.

Though it does go up and down a bit, the route isn’t really about gaining height. It hovers between 400 and 500 metres for its length. It’s classed as an easy walk, though it is extremely exposed almost throughout. It’s also 12 kilometres one way, so that makes it quite long also, as it’s necessary to return. Buses do operate in the summer, but the journey by road in 85 kilometres, and takes at least 2 hours.

Yesterday at Soto, from where I started, it had been very busy. A lot of day visitors come and just walk for an hour or two. Today was quieter, but not as quiet as I expected. I soon was told that it is a holiday weekend in Portugal, Freedom Day tomorrow, for the revolution to end the dictatorship in 1974.

The amount of people wasn’t great though, and it was actually quite pleasant to have the odd conversation with people. I walked with a group of Portuguese on and off on the outward leg. They told me some of the country’s history, I told them about the Rugby World Cup.

At times also I chatted to Australians, an older couple from LA, and for the last 45 minutes or so, a young guy from Sheffield who was running, but wanted a chat. He has relatives in Shap, who I think I know, as they officiate at fell running races.

It was the longest day I have done for a while, at six hours, and about 19 miles. The body held out well enough, though I’m still very slow.

GPS is affected in the gorge. The various rocky overhangs and tunnels aren’t read as they should be, and the height calculation is as if the user went over them. My height gained read almost 4,000 metres, when in reality, it would have been less than 1,000.

Though my plan had been to move on, it was 5:30 pm I got back to the van, so I resorted to the same place in Posada, by the lake, as last night.