Safe Return Doubtful

The RAF have had a military presence at Saxa Vord, on the opposite side of the inlet or voe, to Hermaness, since the Second World War, with a Radar Station on the hill, symbolised by its radar tracking huge golf ball, similar to Great Dunn Fell. It closed in 2006 as it was becoming too expensive to maintain, but reopened in 2019 due to increased Russian military activity. About two kilometres across the hill, on the Skaw headland is the new Saxa Vord Spaceport, formerly the Shetland Space Centre, on the Lamba Ness peninsula. Tests for the first UK vertical rocket launch have already taken place, and the launch itself is scheduled for later this year. Three launch pads will enable 30 launches per year, for orbital rockets for satellites.

Surprisingly, the only objections came from Historical Scotland who withdrew them in 2022, stating that they recognised the benefits that this would bring to the area, in terms of employment, and the visitor’s centre as a tourist attraction.

Tours are taking place at the moment, but more controversial, is for how long the land I have wandering around over for the last couple of days, and up at Skaw Beach, will be accessible to the public. The large grey house, and the white cottage on the beach here at Norwick, are set for compulsory purchase, and no longer occupied. The former was a retirement property that a local farmer had worked on for several years, and the latter a holiday rental. Both on the photo below.

At the moment security is minimal, just an old guy in a portacabin bored out of his mind. The ‘warning’ sign seems in jest rather than with any seriousness to it. No doubt things will change quickly.

I met four older women sat having lunch on the beach at Skaw. They came from the Mainland island and told me they take their holidays annually here on Unst. They pondered what it might be like to watch a launch from a position sat on Skaw beach. It certainly would be a pity if there was no access to this far northeasterly part of Unst. It seems this little corner of wild UK will be a lot less wild in a few months.

I put a hike together that started on the old road between Norwick and Skaw. It is closed and has fallen into disrepair..

Then past the space port, and the old man in his portacabin, who Roja surprised so much that he hastily put away his magazine. The road runs out at Skaw, where there claims to be the most northerly house in Britain, and the terminus of the Northern Cycle Route.

Beyond are Vendra Stacks and a small wild island called the Holm of Skaw. There were a couple of showers during the three hours or so that we were out, but the strong northwesterly kept them short, and the temperature at about 10C.

Back at Norwick beach dog walkers came and went, some stopped to chat, and ask the Test match score. I’ve watched only bits of this series, listened to a lot more of it on the radio, but some of the places I have watched it in have been quite distractingly spectacular.

Unst Fest doesn’t name a venue for its outdoor events until shortly before, due to weather conditions. This afternoon at 4 pm there was a kids disco, for the 6 to 12 age group, and it was on Norwick beach, about 50 metres from where I had the Ashes on. It didn’t disturb me at all, fifty or more kids painting each other, dancing, and playing various other games in the sand and the sea. Most of them were completely soaked after the hour was up. With the temperature at 10 degrees, one can only admire their toughness. I didn’t see anyone complain, and it rained hard at one time, with the sand blowing around.