Safe Return Doubtful

The Sierra de la Demanda was largely formed in the last ice age, with broad alpine peaks, green highland pastures, and expansive valleys cut by fierce rivers, not least the Ebro, which I have been following for a few days now. Wildlife abounds. This is La Rioja province, and here, famously, are the footsteps of dinosaurs, fossilised prints of which are to be found in several places. Castles and fortifications from medieval wars dot the landscape of the hills, and in the valley of the Ebro are world-famous vineyards. 

But my visit was to be cut short. My plan was to have at least five days here, winding my way upwards to an altitude of 1200 metres, where the dinosaur footprints are, to Villaslada and Encino. I’ve been watching the weather forecast as ever, and there is a severe orange warning in place for rain, starting Wednesday and lasting until Sunday. It’s a big advantage of the van to be able to move at such short notice. My original plans had not included spending any time in the Pyrenees, other than to traverse, but it seemed the weather would arrive there a day later. A quick decision, and after an hour out on a circuit of Anguino, I drove the three hundred kilometres to the Ordesa and Monte Perdido National Park. The new plan is to get to the south of the Dordogne as soon as the rain arrives across northern Spain and the Pyrenees. The sort of rain forecast can lead to flooding, and I prefer to be off the roads by then. 

I had found a place that looked a good stop for the night, and a couple of hikes, and it proved to be excellent. Tella is at 1300 m and this afternoon was basking in 14 degrees and some high cloud, and the odd shower; proper rain not until tomorrow afternoon. 

After four hours in the van we wee straight out to catch the rest of the daylight, and took the Ruta de la Ermitas which takes in three chapels, each with a spectacular setting, one from the sixth century, one from the twelfth, and one from the sixteenth. There was no one around other than a farmer, none of the tourist accommodation up at this altitude is open yet, and won’t be until the end of April. Lower down, around Boltaña and Huesca, there were quite a few visitors, this week is the mid-term break for some Spanish municipalities.