Rokua National Park

Rokua National Park was founded in 1956 to protect the natural-state lichen heaths and unusual geologic features of the area. Rokua is one of the oldest national parks in Finland, the first were established in 1938. More were founded in 1956.

Leaving Hailuoto and the Bothnian coast on a fine morning. Rua found a large rabbit in the dunes..

Rokua is located at the southern end of a ridge and includes dunes, kettle hole marshes and clear-watered lakes. 

Lichen heaths are a special feature of the terrain in Rokua. They date back 10,000 years at least, to the Ice Age. Lichens thrive in dry forests and have provided a livelihood for many people. It was an important winter food for the forest deer that were once hunted here by northern tribes. Lichen was also used as reindeer fodder and, in years of crop failure and famine, was mixed with tree bark to make bark bread. Lichen has also been used as a sealant, insulation and dehumidifier in the houses of local people. A piece of dry lichen can absorb up to twice its weight in water, helping to keep windows clear of condensation for example. 

Rokua National Park, its lichen prominent

Finland has 187,888 lakes that measure at least 500 square meters (5,382 square feet) in surface area, the third most in the world. Only Russia and Canada have more. 67 of them are in Rokua, and over the last few days Rua has swum in many of them. 

I’m parked up near the park headquarters where there is also a Spa Hotel a kilometre or so away, but midweek, and at this time of the year, it is very quiet, with just the occasional other visitor. 

The car park offers electricity for campervans at the same outlets as for electric cars. That has been useful now, after the autumn equinox and with the sun much lower in the sky. It is necessary just to connect to an app and register. The cost is surprisingly low, at least €0.02 per kWh. So far my bill is less than €0.05. 

There were two fine days of weather as we arrived, with an afternoon high of 13C, but cloud has moved in today, so the maximum is a few degrees less, but with that cloud, it doesn’t go much cooler at night. 

There are clearly marked trails here for hiking and mountain biking, with gradual elevations. The hiking trails are easy, and consequently my weekly distance total has increased. Over the last few weeks I average over a hundred kilometres a week. Another reason is that Rua is older, and can do more. He goes out three times a day mostly, the longest being the first, in the morning. It’s too cool to sit with the van door open now, so at other hours of the day he is confined to the small space of the Crafter, and he has a huge amount of energy to expend. 

Searching the hut for leftovers..

It has been necessary to consider what I might do if my application to extend my Schengen visa is turned down. I meet all the criteria, and in past years there would be no reason for it to be turned down, but these are changing times in Europe, even for this sort of visa, the problem being those who then overstay. 

My options are: 

1 The Balkans, though it will soon be winter there, and it would involve driving an extra 5,000 kilometres. Fuel is a consideration. It is now €2.51 a litre here in Finland, and has just gone up significantly across Europe. 

2 A return to Ireland to continue the journey I postponed last summer. That would involved another Animal Health Certificate for Rua. Even though the current one lasts six months, a new one is necessary for each individual trip. 

3 Scotland. At the moment this looks like the best option, despite it being winter when I get there, mid-October. It would mean changing things around. I had planned to be in the UK in January and February, but that would mean I could return to Europe early in the new year, by which time, hopefully fuel will be cheaper. 

It’s a scenario I hope not to have to consider further, but with only 16 days left of my 90, I need to have an alternative. I await a decision from Swedish Migration, and until they make one, I am fine to be in the EU. 

Though people who live on the road like I do are relatively few, but Brexit has had a major effect on our lifestyles. 

Tomorrow, Friday, we will move on. The plan is to be around Kajaani and Vuokatti for the weekend, before moving to another National Park, further east, next week. The autumn weather is warmer than average, and with less rain. In past years there has already been snow in these parts, but there is no sign of that this year so far. 

I’ve just finished reading the first of three books by a British guy called Tony Lurcock. He has always enjoyed travelling in Finland and his writing is about the first British who travelled to the country, from the mid 1700s. I’ll post my review separately, but the first book is really interesting, short articles from books of intrepid travellers who ventured here in those early days of touring.

Leave a comment

supera superiora sequi

SafeReturnDoubtful is my alias. Rua is my fox red labrador pup, born 14 Feb 2026 and learning fast..


Where is Rua?

Shap, Cumbria circa 2016 – Tia, Roja and Mac behind

I was so much older then…

Dartmoor 2019


Quote of the Week

Alice asked the Cheshire Cat, who was sitting in a tree, ‘What road do I take?’ The cat asked, ‘Where do you want to go?’ ‘I don’t know,’ Alice answered. ‘Then,’ said the cat, ‘it really doesn’t matter, does it?’


Lewis Carroll